Pressing

Submitted By:
Nikita Nath (12)
Prashant Rathi (14)
Tanya Shree (24)
1

Introduction
To Pressing

Today, wearing clothes without

wrinkles is considered a sign of
respect, both to yourself and to
others.
Wearing wrinkled clothes is a sign
that you do not respect yourself
enough
to
consider
your
appearance, which in turn, may
mean you have bad hygienic
practices.
In formal situations, wearing
wrinkled clothing in the presence of
superiors is considered a sign of
disrespect to those superiors, as if
they are not worthy of you going to
the trouble of ironing your clothes.
3

Pressing: An
Introduction

Pressingis the use of a heated tool to

removewrinklesfrom fabric.
The heating is commonly done to a
temperature of 180-220 Celsius, depending
on the fabric.
Pressing works by loosening the bonds
between
the
longchainpolymermoleculesin the fibers of the
material.
While the molecules are hot, the fibers are
straightened by the weight of the pressing
equipment, and they hold their new shape
as they cool.
Some fabrics, such as cotton, require the
addition
of
water
to
loosen
the
intermolecular bonds.
Manymodern fabrics(developed in or after
the mid-twentieth century) are advertised as
needing little or no ironing.

History of Pressing

The first known use of metal to press clothes, however, is known to have
occurred in China.
Metal pans filled with hot water were used for smoothing fabrics inChinain the
1st centuryBC.
From the 17th century,sadirons(meaningsolid) began to be used. They were
thick slabs ofcast iron delta-shaped and with a handle, heated in a fire. These
were also called flat irons.

A later design consisted of an iron box which could be filled with hotcoals, which
had to be periodically aerated by attaching a bellows.
The electric iron was invented in 1882, by Henry W. Seeley. Seeley patented his
"electric flatiron" on June 6, 1882 (U.S. Patent no. 259,054).
5

What is Pressing?

Pressing is the application of heat,

moisture, and pressure to shape,
mould, or crease fabrics, garments,
or garment parts into the geometric
forms intended by their designers.
It may be done during assembly to
facilitate other operations and
improve quality or as a final
finishing process.
6

Objectives of Pressing

Increase attractiveness at the

point of sale,
To smooth away unwanted
creases,
To make creases where the
design of the garment requires
them,
To mould the garment to the
contour of the body,
To prepare garment for further
sewing,
To refinish the fabric after
manufacturing the garment.

Before Pressing

After Pressing

Elements Of Pressing
1.

2.
3.

4.

Steam: the combined effect of steam and

heat is to slightly soften the fiber structure
so that it can take on an alternative shape.
Pressure: after steam, pressure is applied
which sets the fibers into their new position.
Drying: garment must be now be dried and
cooled so that the cloth can revert to
moisture content and stable condition.
Time: the length of time is subjected to
steam, pressure and drying depends on the
fabric and the part being processed.
8

Factors Affecting Elements Of

Pressing

The types of material used.

The shape or form that is required in the
final garment.
The degree of permanency needed.

Categorizing
Pressing

In-process pressingDone while a garment is under

construction;
It is used to crease, shape and
smooth components for more
accurate seaming)

Pressing

Finish pressing(It adds the final shape to seam and

garments; It is required for the
pleasing appearance )

11

Ironing Vs. Pressing

S.N
o

Ironing

Pressing

1.

Ironinginvolves sliding an
iron back and forth to remove
wrinkles and is normally only
done to finished garments.

Pressingis when you put the

iron down and press hard to
create or reinforce the folds of
hems, pleats etc (i.e. to create
creases) and is an essential part
of the making clothes

2.

Ironing can stretch and

change the lay (grain line) of
your fabric

Pressing does not effect the

grain line.

3.

It is done in general to
enhance the hand and lusture.

It is done to remove the

wrinkles of a particular area.

12

Types Of Pressing

Garments requiring pleating

or permanent press finishing

Garm
ents
requiri
ng
the
pressi
ng
open
of
seam
s and
settin
g the
edges
durin
g
manu
factur
e

Garments requiring extensive

underpressing and final
pressing

For opening of seams and creasing of edges and for pressing garments
with gathers and fullness.

Garments requiring the use of

an iron in underpressing and
pressing and final pressing

Garments require light steaming since pressing (application of pressure )

is not required.
Simple ply garments like slips and nightgowns, t-shirts, and knitted
garments.

Garments requiring minimal

pressing or finishing

Includes bras, and other foundation garments, stretch swimwear and

dancewear etc.
The finish is achieved by topstitch of seams

Garments which require no

pressing

Includes
Includes mens
mens jackets,
jackets, trousers,
trousers, topstitches
topstitches ,, trench
trench coats
coats and
and other
other
lined
rainwear.
lined rainwear.
fabric is treated with a resin and then cured
at high temperature

13

Pressing Techniques

Flat Pressing: Removal of wrinkles before

cutting, before sewing, or on the finished
product.
Steaming: may be carried out to relax the
fabric, to avoid shrinkage during
subsequent pressing.
Moulding : Moulding is the creation and
fixing of three-dimensional shape in a
garment

14

Flat Pressing

Steaming

Moulding

15

Parts of a Press (Iron)

Sole Plate
The sole plate is the thick, triangular-shaped slab of iron that forms the base
over which the electric iron is built up.
The bottom surface and edges are heavily chromium plated, to prevent it
from rusting.
The base plate should hold the iron pressure plate and cover plate in
position.
For this purpose we can see two or sometimes three studs in the base plate.
These studs aid in holding the position of cover plate and pressure plate.
Pressure Plate
This plate is generally called the top plate as it follows the shape of sole
plate.
The pressure plate has some holes through which the studs form the base
plate passes through.

We should tighten the nuts on the studs in such a way that the pressure
plate and sole plate are pressed tight against each other
. In some iron the pressure plate is heavy and made of cast iron while in
some other cases, it is a thin sheet of steel, about cm thick

16

In automatic type
of electric iron,
the pressure plate
has a rectangular
or circular hole for
locating
the
thermostat.

17

Some other parts are:

18

Types of Tables

There are three types of iron tables available.

Vacuum table, where the vacuum is sucked

through the table surface to lay the garment
flat on the surface as well as suck the residual
moisture and heat from the garment after
ironing.

The second type of iron table is the up-steam

table where steam comes up from table surface
through
garments
thus
moistening
the
garment. This is used for knitted garments,
where ironing is not advisable as the movement
of the iron deforms the garment.

There is a little known third type: the Blow up

table which is unique for any garment pressing,
without leaving any marks. This method offers
cushioning effect to the garments due to the
upward thrust of air from the table which
prevents ironing marks on the garments.
19

The Structure Of The Cloth

Cover System

The Top Cover may consist of either

synthetic fibre, which has long life, shorter
heat-resistance up to 1800 C and hand
washable in soap water (300 C).
The Intermediate Layer consists of 5 or
10 mm of foam as cushion for covers.
The Adjusting Fibre guarantees the
complete splitting of the condensate drops
and reduces the humidity in the cover
system.
The Base Layer is generally a patented
silicon mat for long-term good suction
blowing result. This distributes strong
airflow evenly over the entire surface.
The Ironing Surface of tables consists of
a corrosion-resistant perforated plate or a
bored castingmould with an additional light
metal grid for an evenly spread suction
and blowing airflow (avoids wet covers).
20

Pressing
Equipments

Types of Pressing Equipment Used in the

Garment Industry

Garment pressing equipments used:Pre-Design Garment Pressing Equipment:

Pre-design garment pressing equipment prepares
unpressed fabric through ironing before it is designed or
cut.
These machines are manually operated by pressing down
on the fabric with a push bar that lowers the presser onto
the fabric. Pre-garment pressers also are used to define
stitching lines in a garment before it is cut or designed.
Collar and Lapel Garment Pressing equipment:
Garment collar and lapel pressing equipment is
ergonomically designed to press shirt collars, blouses,
coats and jackets.
The pressing board is curved so the collar or lapel of a
garment fits snugly on the layout board of the garment
pressing equipment. Many collar and lapel presses are

22

Jacket Garment Pressing Equipment:

Jacket garment pressing equipment is engineered to the
shape of the jacket, and is manually operated by a
pressing bar.
It is designed to press the inside and outside of the jacket,
which includes the base fabric or lining inside of the
jacket.
Miniature Garment Pressing Equipment:
Miniature garment pressing equipment is used to iron
smaller fabrics after the manufacturing or design phase.
These finishing garment pressing machines consist of
hand-ironing devices attached to the pressing board for
manual ironing. The ironing boards are flat surfaces
shaped in a square or rectangle for easy ironing.

23

Sleeve and Arm Garment Pressing Equipment:

Sleeve and arm garment pressing equipment is used to iron
the sleeves of jackets and coats after the garment is
manufactured or designed.
Sleeve and arm pressers are engineered vertically or as flatsurface machines with the pressing boards shaped in the
form of an arm.
Depending on the type of fabric the jacket or coat is made
of, there are different settings for each type of fabric. These
settings range from low, medium or high settings, which can
be adjusted by a dial or switch.

24

Common Pressing
Equipments
Buck Press

These are commonly used

by manufactures of slacks,
skirts and jackets.
Components 1.Lowerbuck
2.Moveable
head with a
linkage system
3.Buck padding steam and
vacuum system frame
4.Manual
or
automatic
control for steams, vacuum,
heat and pressure. It may be
used for in-process pressing
and finish pressing.

25

Form pressing

Form presses are made in

the approximate shape of
the finished garments.
Steam is forced from the
inside of the form through
garment while the form
expands to fill all the
space inside the garment.
It is designed to reduce
the amount of positioning
and re-positioning time.

26

Pneumatic control

Centralized vacuum
plant
The pressing machines in the garment
industry may also use
the fluids to run the machines, namely pneumatic air, steam
and vacuum.
It must be kept in mind that without these fluids, a pressing
machine cannot work.
Generally, an ironing table is used i.e. with an built-in vacuum.
This may be applicable, for example, in in-line preparation
(sewing dept) where it could be awkward to have main vacuum
pipes connected to each and every table.
27

Flat bed pneumatic

Head is suspended on rocker arms

for self aligning with the bed.

Machined pressing surface.
Pneumatic raising and lowering
with push buttons.
Perforated bed prodded with
sponge padding. Powerful
centrifugal suction for moisture
exhaust. Automatic timed release
of the head at preset time.
Automatic digital temperature
control of the head.

28

Electro-Pneumatic Pressing
Machine

Machine does the pressing

itself, automatically.
Operator only settles and
gets it out.
One person can operate on
two machines at the same
time.
When the first machine
starts pressing operator
settle down clothing on the
second one and will just
push a button to start
pressing.
Steam Pressure 3-4 bar

29

Steamers

These are the pressing machine

that uses only steam to mold
and smooth the garment.
Types of steamers steam jets,
steam guns,
steam puffs,
steam tunnels,

These devices may be used

either to form and stabilize
garment shape.

30

Steam Tunnels

These are used for final pressing.

Garments
are
de-wrinkled
within
a
chamber by the average pressure of
circulating steam.
Garments are carried over the nozzle of a
steam jet in order for the garment to
receive the full force of the steam pressure.
It reduces labor costs and process
garment at a rate of 1200 to 3600
units per hour.
31

Permanent Press

It was developed some years ago as a

way of giving good crease recovery after
washing to cellulosic fibers.
It declined with the rise in popularity of
polyester/cotton and polyester/viscose
blends, where the polyester content
assist crease recovery and improves
fabric strength.
The permanent press treatment reduces
fabric strength.
32

Pleating

It is a special type of pressing the aim

of which to produce an array of
creases in a garment , of some
durability
and
according
to
a
geometrical pattern.
Machine pleating is of two types:
-rotary machine
-blade machine

33

Rotary machine: in which the rollers are

fitted with complementary dies similar to
gears.
extensive areas of tiny pleats such as crystal
pleating or accordion pleating can be produced
on this machine.
Blade machine: in which pleats are formed by
the thrust of a blade or blades.
The pleats are set by heat and pressure as
they pass between a pair of mangle -type
rollers.

34

Boilers

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

Steam is produced with coal, gas or electrode

boilers.
Every boiler regardless of its source of heat, has the
following basic componentsThe boiler frame
The tank for heating and boiling the water
Insulation materials
Steam pressure gauge
The heating mechanism or element
The water intake system
The steam outlet system
The water gauge
Steam safety valve

35

Electrode Boilers

Electrode boilers use electrodes to pass

current through the water to be heated.
The resistance of the water produces heat,
which converts the water to steam. Water
treatment is extremely important for
electrode boilers,
They may be located at the point where
steam is required, as no combustion
fumes are produced, no chimney is

36

Coal Fired boilers

Coal-fired boilers are of two basic types:
1.Fire Tube
2.Water Tube.
FIRE TUBE BOILER
Constructed in many forms-with a single large fire tube, two
or multiple small tubes.
The tube shape is best able to resist the pressure of the steam.
The surface are available to transfer heat from the hot fire
gasses to the water is increased because of multiple small
tubes.

Gas Boilers

Are basically gas-burner boilers.

Available in many constructions-coil type boilers, vertical shell
cylindrical boilers, waste heat boilers, etc.

37

Water tube boilers

No need for a strong

outer shell to contain
the steam pressure as
steam bubbles rise as
soon
as
they
are
formed and cause the
water to circulate freely
around the pipe work.
Water and steam are
separated in the steam
drum.

38

Different Fabrics
& Their
Characteristics
Towards Pressing

Natural Materials

WOOL - Is an excellent heat insulator, with great power of

absorption and great recovering capacity. Will shrink when washed
at high temperatures. Becomes misshapen if hung to dry. Tends to
go yellowish or to lose colour if improperly cared for.
SILK - Resistant, light material, pleasant to the touch, colours are
fast. Does not react well to high temperatures or centrifuging.
When there are stains, a professional should be consulted. Should
be ironed at low temperatures, without steam. This material is
sensitive to perspiration and friction.
COTTON cool, comfortable, highly resistant to tearing and
friction. Resistant to ironing and will shrink if washed at high
temperatures. As colours are not very fast, the first washing should
be carried out separately.
LINEN Fresh and pleasant to the touch, resistant to soiling.
Should always be washed by hand, should not be centrifuged or
washed at high temperatures. Resistant to ironing. Great tendency
to wrinkle.
RAMIE With features similar to linen. Cool, resistant, should
always be hand-washed and at low temperatures. Should not be

40

Artificial Materials

VISCOSE/RAYON/ACETATE/MODAL
'96
Silky to the touch, fast colours. Should
not be centrifuged, as they tend to lose
their shape. Low resistance when damp,
tend to burn easily.

SYNTHETIC MATERIALS

POLYAMIDE/ELASTANE/ACRYLIC/POLYEST
ER '96 Quite resistant, do not wrinkle
and colours are fast. Should be washed
in lukewarm water and ironed at low
temperatures, without steam. They burn
easily and accumulate static electricity.

JEANS - Should be washed inside out,

separately, or with similarly coloured
clothes. Stain removers must not be
applied. They should not be dry-cleaned.
41

Textile

Temperature

Triacetate ("Estron",
"Silene", "Tricell")

220-250 C

Cotton

180-220 C

Linen (flax)

215-240 C

Viscose/Rayon

150-180 C

Wool

160-170 C

Polyester
Silk

140-165 C

Acetate ("Arnel",
"Celco", "Dicel")

180 C

Acrylic

180 C

Lycra/spandex
Nylon-6

150 C

Nylon-66

180-220 C
42

Parametric
Conditions
of Pressing

The buck and press should be

even to achieve greater pressure
Recently, the clothing Technology
Centre developed an equipment
to monitor press equipments.
Sensors quantify the conditions
inside the press equipment by
measuring the temperature,
pressure, and the strength of the
cooling vacuum.
The thickness and evenness of
the cladding can also be
measured .
This equipment has greatly
increased the chances of setting
presses correctly to achieve an
acceptable standard of pressing .
44

45

Pressing Seams

Smooth each line of machine

stitching by pressing along it
before you press the seam
allowance open or in the direction
it should go.
Press a seam open if you wish the
seamline to be inconspicuous on
the right side.
Press both seam allowances to
one side when one is fuller than
the other, usually pressing the
fuller against the less full.
To save time, stitch a number of
seams, then press them.
Always be sure to press each
seam before crossing it with
another line of stitching.

46

Always avoid pressing over pins. Pin marks are very difficult
to remove from fabrics, especially synthetics.
To keep fabric grain lines true, always press straight seams
on flat surfaces and curved seams over a pressing cushion.
Curve seams may need to be clipped or trimmed so they
can be pressed flat and smooth.
Finger pressing helps to open seam edges for pressing.

47

Pressing Darts

Always press darts over curved pressing cushions.

To aid in sewing, press the folded edge of a dart before stitching it.

After stitching, trim very wide darts to a seam allowance width,

then press the dart open over a pressing cushion.

Fold the point of the dart toward the centre of the garment.

Lengthwise darts are pressed towards the centre front or the

center back of the garment.
48

Pressing Pleats and Tucks

Press pleats or tucks in place before joining

pleated sections to the rest of the garment.
Place strips of paper under the edges if the
fold of the pleat or tuck leaves an imprint on
the right side of the garment when pressed.
After stitching, press the line of stitching,
then turn the pleat or tuck in the correct
direction.
Press folds flat on the right side, using a
press cloth.
49

Pressing Enclosed Seams

For enclosed seam of a collar,

cuff or facing, press the seam
allowances
open
before
pressing them together.
Grade and clip seams as
needed and turn the garment
to the right side. Press the area
again to make certain that the
edge is smooth and flat.
Under stitching will help keep
seams from rolling to the right
side of the garment.

50

Pressing Eased Areas

Steaming and pressing helps shrink out ease and

shape fabric.
The top of a sleeve cap can be eased by holding it
over the proper pressing cushion while pressing.

To shrink out fullness from the top of the skirt hem, lay
it flat on a table or pressing board with a piece of
cardboard under the section to be shrunk and press
lightly with a steam iron.

51

Wash Care Symbols

IRONING

52

Special Pressing Problems

Corduroy, plushes, velveteen and velvet should be steamed

rather than pressed.
If a steam iron is used, place the fabric right side up on the
pressing board.
For pressing on the wrong side, place the fabric face down
over a turkish towel, a piece of self-fabric or a needle board
and steam press lightly. Brush and let dry. Seams of these pile
fabrics can be steamed and then finger pressed.
Heavy crepes tend to shrink up when damp, and they are apt
to flatten out and loose their crepe look when pressed.
To press, place crepe fabrics right side down against a turkish
towel and press lightly using very little moisture or steam. Use
this same method for pressing ribbed fabrics

53

Special Pressing Problems

Cont.

Embroidered, embossed and quilted fabrics should be

pressed from the wrong side over a thick padding, such
as a turkish towel.
Glazed chintz and other glossy fabrics usually are
pressed on the right side to retain the shine.
Puckered fabrics should not be flattened by pressing.
They may need a light smoothing of the seams and
touch up of collar, cuffs, pockets and other details.
Dark cottons should be pressed on the wrong side to
prevent shine.
Gabardines and other hard-finished twills should be
pressed lightly using little steam. Try finger pressing on
seams and folded edges.

54

Safety Measures
While Pressing

56

57

The Dos And Don'ts Of Pressing

1. Start by pressing on the wrong side of the fabric.
2. Press seam allowances either open or to one side before
sewing across a seam.
3. Make sure you let your fabric cool or dry before moving it,
otherwise it can distort the shape of the fabric.
4. Do NOT press over pins. Not only will they melt, it can also
cause puckers that are hard to remove. You also do NOT want to
iron over basted lines, again because it can leave an impression
that is hard to get out.

58

Technological Advancements In
Pressing
Advancements in finishing technology focus
on several areas

Greater versatility,
More precision in determining exact
pressing requirement of fabrics and
finishes,
Improved quality,
Energy saving, and resources.
59

Different companies are offering continuous

improvement in design to improve performance, save
energy and make a user-friendly product.
For example:
The drainage and water feeding hoses are combined
into one hose in irons to make it a user friendly
product.
Steam volume can be easily and finely adjusted by
using a swing lever, push lever or feather-touch type
switch.
Specific design to ensure low centre of gravity and
height, which makes its use easy and smooth.

60

Bibliography

http://rodmaru.hubpages.com/hub/Moms-o
ld-Iron-Signpost-of-Technology
http://web.ebscohost.com/ehost/searc
h/advanced?sid=1912db97-e3e8-4d5e-8e
fd-160ba768dfc5%40sessionmgr14&vid=1
9&hid=9
http://www.veit.de/de/professionelle-bue
gelgeraete
http://business.highbeam.com/industry-re
ports/personal/garment-pressing-agents-f
or-laundries-drycleaners
61

THANK YOU :)