Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Quality Issues
Better understanding of common stitch types and
where they are typically used.
How to better communicate with vendors so
mistakes are eliminated
CHAINSTITCH COVERSTITCH
BLINDSTITCH
OVEREDGE
ISO Std. 4915
From Fed. Std. 751a
New ASTM Std. D-6193
101
Single Thread Chainstitch or Lockstitch * 304 Lockstitch is preferred when
or Single Thread Chainstitch
BS, BH or Bartack stitch security is a Must.
304 with spreader
Spreader
Coverstitch
with 2, 3, or 4 needles &
3 Ndl. 5 Thrd. Coverstitch 605 looper & top spreader
Stitch Drawing -
Top and bottom view as sewn on the
Single Thread Blindstitch
sewing machine.
101
Single Thread Chainstitch or Lockstitch * 304 Lockstitch is preferred when
or
BS, BH or Bartack stitch security is a Must.
304
ISO Stitch # - The ISO 4915
Single Thread Blindstitch
Stitch Type.
101
Single Thread Chainstitch or Lockstitch * 304 Lockstitch is preferred when
or Buttonsew,
Buttonhole or
Common Applications -
BS, BH or Bartack stitch security is a Must.
304 Bartack Common applications where
this stitch is used.
No stitch visible on the Bottom or Blindstitch Hemming,
Single Thread Blindstitch Outside of Sewn Product
103 Felling, Belt Loops
Topstitching, Single
Needle Stitching,
Lockstitch - Most Common of All Stitches Bobbin Thread on Bottom
301 Straight Stitching 1) Specify SPI
Twin Needle
Chainstitch for Felled
Seams on Jeans,
Twin Needle Chainstitch 401 Shirts, etc.
2 Ndl Hemming,
Binding,
Coverseaming,
Elastic to Panties,
2 Ndl. Bottom Coverstitch 406 Belt Loops
Attaching Elastic to
Men's & Boys Knit
3 Ndl. Bottom Coverstitch 407 Underwear
406
406
Coverseaming
2 Needle
Hem
406
Attaching
Elastic
406
Making
Belt Loops
Stitch Drawing ISO Common
Top View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn Number Application Requirements Stitch Description
Topstitching, Single
Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and
Needle Stitching, interlocking with a bobbin thread with the threads meeting in the center of
Lockstitch - Most Common of All Stitches Bobbin Thread on Bottom
301 Straight Stitching 1) Specify SPI the seam. Stitch looks the same top & bottom.
1) Specify Needle
Spacing; and 2) Specify Same as 301 except two rows of stitch are formed. Typical Needle Spacing
Twin Needle Lockstitch 301 Twin Needle SPI is 1/4" but machines are available from3/16" up to 1"
Twin Needle
Chainstitch for Felled
1) Specify Needle Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and
Seams on Jeans, Spacing; and 2) Specify interlooped with 2 looper threads forming 2 independent rows of stitch set
Twin Needle Chainstitch 401 Shirts, etc. SPI on the underside of the seam.
2 Ndl Hemming,
Binding,
1) Specify Needle
Spacing (1/4", 3/16", Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and
Coverseaming,
interlooping with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the
Elastic to Panties, 1/8"); and 2) Specify seam. Looper thread interlooped between needle threads providing seam
2 Ndl. Bottom Coverstitch 406 Belt Loops SPI coverage on the bottomside only.
1/4
1/8
1/4
Stitch Drawing ISO Common
Top View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn Number Application Requirements Stitch Description
1) Specify SPI - typically Stitch is formed with one needle thread that is interlooped with itself on the
3 - 5 spi; 2) Non-Skipped top surface of the material. The thread passes through the top ply and
No stitch visible on the Bottom or Blindstitch Hemming, Stitch or 2 to 1 Skipped horizontally through portions of the bottomply without completely
Single Thread Blindstitch Outside of Sewn Product
103 Felling, Belt Loops Stitch on sheer fabrics penetrating it the full depth.
Topstitching, Single
Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and
Needle Stitching, interlocking with a bobbin thread with the threads meeting in the center of
Lockstitch - Most Common of All Stitches Bobbin Thread on Bottom
301 Straight Stitching 1) Specify SPI the seam. Stitch looks the same top & bottom.
1) Specify Needle
Spacing; and 2) Specify Same as 301 except two rows of stitch are formed. Typical Needle Spacing
Twin Needle Lockstitch 301 Twin Needle SPI is 1/4" but machines are available from3/16" up to 1"
Twin Needle
Chainstitch for Felled
1) Specify Needle Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and
Seams on Jeans, Spacing; and 2) Specify interlooped with 2 looper threads forming 2 independent rows of stitch set
Twin Needle Chainstitch 401 Shirts, etc. SPI on the underside of the seam.
2 Ndl Hemming,
Binding,
1) Specify Needle
Spacing (1/4", 3/16", Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and
Coverseaming,
interlooping with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the
Elastic to Panties, 1/8"); and 2) Specify seam. Looper thread interlooped between needle threads providing seam
2 Ndl. Bottom Coverstitch 406 Belt Loops SPI coverage on the bottomside only.
In a Garment
Factory, what
happens in the
Cutting Room?
This is the cutting table where layers of fabric are spread out and garment
components are cut. Here we see pants panels being cut. Usually fabric for pants is
spread face-to-face so you end up with pairs of fronts, backs, pockets, etc.
The length direction of the fabric on the cutting
table is called the Warp direction; perpendicular
across the table is called the Weft or Fill
direction; and at an angle across the piece
goods is referred to as the bias. Most woven
fabrics have a selvedge edges.
Weaving Machine
Most Common Stitches
Used & Why
Common Stitch Types 101 406
301 Lockstitch
401 Chainstitch
503 or 504 Overedge
515 or 516 Safetystitch
304 Bartacking
101 or 304 Buttonsew or BH 304
103 Blindstitch
516
What are
401
common Stitches
401
301 used to sew
504
Wovens?
American & Efird, Inc.
Buttonsew
101 Chainstitch B.S.
or 304 Lockstitch B.S.
Sideseam
516 Safetystitch Felling Riser, Seat
( No Bobbin Changes &
Cover Fabric Edge)
Seam & Inseam
401 Chainstitch -
2 or 3 Rows
( No Bobbin Changes &
Clean Finish Top & Bottom)
Uses a
Hook &
Bobbin
Top View Bottom View Application
301 Lockstitch
- Plainsewer
- Topstitching
301 Lockstitch looks the same - Seaming
on both the top and bottom.
A 301 Lockstitch
is the most
common type of
Stitch!
301 Lockstitch
Advantages
Reversible
Recommended when turning
corners
Tightest Seam Construction
minimizing Seam Grinning
Low Seam Profile/Better Hand
301 Lockstitch
Will not unravel is Reversible
Capable of Back Tacking
A 301 Lockstitch
has many advantages
and that is why it
is so common! Outside of garment
Bartackers are
Cycle Machines
The most common
pattern for a sewing a predetermined
bartack includes 3 number of stitches
rows of line
stitches and then
numerous cross-
over or zig-zag
stitches - a total of
28 stitches per
tack.
Bartacks are generally used to reinforce seams to prevent the seam from degrading. Typical
locations for bartacks include: corners of pockets, at edge of seam to prevent the chain from
unraveling, etc.
Bartacks - are used to reinforce seams at stress points or
attach Belt Loops. Specify the length & width of the Tack.
Most bartacks have 28 stitches per cycle. Bartacks should
be the correct length and width.
301 Lockstitch
Disadvantages
Constant Bobbin
Changes
Not as Elastic as
Chainstitch or Overedge
Changing bobbins
all day must
take away a lot of
time from
production!
American & Efird, Inc.
Looper
A chainstitch will only unravel
from the underside of
the seam and from
the last stitch formed.
Top View Bottom View Application
401 Stitch
- Main Seams
One of the Most
Common stitches
ONE NEEDLE THREAD ONE LOOPER THREAD
Chainstitch - generally
used for mainseams
on woven apparel!
Looper
Advantages
No Bobbin Changes - fewer restitched
seams
Greater Seam Strength - fewer opened
seams
Greater Seam Elasticity - fewer opened
seams
Higher Machine Speeds - higher
Both the needle and looper
productivity
threads come right off the
cone?
Multi-Rows of Stitch - for special
Looper
applications
This machine has
four needles and
four loopers
producing four
rows of chainstitch
Close-Coupled
Puller
Metering Device
This Machine has four needles and four loopers making four independent rows
of 401 chainstitch. It is equipped with a metering device to stretch the elastic
and a folder for folding the fabric.
Disadvantages
Can unravel easily from last stitch
formed
Can unravel if a skipped stitch
occurs
Can unravel if the stitch is broken
Not recommended when turning
corners
Serging -
generally refers to
Serging - was one
of the ways to the covering of the
prevent the edge of edge to prevent the
wovens from
unraveling
edge from
unraveling. All three
stitches can be used
for serging but a 503
stitch uses the least
amount of thread.
Top View Bottom View Application
503 Stitch
- Serging (single purl -
less thread
Two threads - needle & looper consumption)
504 Stitch
- Seaming and / or
Serging
Three threads - needle & 2 loopers
505 Stitch
- Serging (double purl -
best coverage of
Three threads - needle & 2 loopers edge)
515 Stitch
- Safety stitch Seaming
516 Stitch
- Safety stitch Seaming
Stitch Tongue or
Chaining Finger
Upper &
Lower Knives
where the yarns in the fabric pull
out of the seam from the edge.
This often occurs on fabrics
constructed of continuous
filament yarns that are very
smooth and have a slick surface.
Also caused by loosely
constructed fabrics.
Inside of Seam
Possible Solutions
Increase the Seam Margin
Optimize the Stitches Per Inch
Change to a different Seam Construction
Stitch & restitched seam Inside of Seam
French Seam
Automatic Buttonsew Machine
Bobbin Winder
BH
Purl Stitch - where the purl is
pulled to the top of the buttonhole
edge.
Whip Stitch - where the purl is
pulled to the center or bottom of
the buttonhole edge.
Dress/ Casual Shirts - Buttonhole length generally is 1/2 inch, is placed vertically, with
approximately 85-90 stitches, and is usually done with a lockstitch buttonhole machine.
Knit Shirts - Buttonhole length generally is 1/2 inch, is placed horizontally, with
approximately 85-90 stitches, and is usually done with a lockstitch buttonhole machine.
Note: Knit plants have a tendency to use a buttonhole machine set for approximately 40-
45 stitches per buttonhole, and then run two cycles on the same buttonhole. This gives
better coverage on the knit fabric so there are less fibers protruding from under the
thread.
Common Stitches Used in Slacks or Trousers
Set Front Pockets &
J Stitch Fly
301 Lockstitch
Serge Pants Panels ( Reversible & Low
503 - 2 Thd. Overedge Seam Profile)
( Cover Raw Edge & Less Thread
Consumption than 3 Thread Stitch)
Ridge Former
Used to determine penetration
Skipped
Stitch Setting
Malformed Stitches
Needle & Bobbin threads meet
in Center of Seam
Top Bottom
Always Check Bobbin Case Thread Tension 1st!
Use the yo-yo method to check the Bobbin Tension,
if possible.
Looper
Thread
l i t y
Q ua
o or
P Needle Thread too
tight!
Unbalanced Stitches
Skips on Chainstitch
Skips on Lockstitch
Skips on Overedge
Warp
Bias
a T-18 or T-24 Perma Core). Heavy Weight T-60 8.7 7.3 5.0
T-70 6.3
T-80 9.6 7.7
T-90 7.6
T-105 11.5 8.2 9.7
Ex-Heavy Weight T-120 14.6 11.4 10.6
* Strength in lbs. And is based on current averages.
Use smallest needle size possible that will not cause excessive sewing
problems. We recommend a needle with a longer needle point so that it will
have less resistance as it penetrates the seam.
800
re
Tension (Grams)
700 Co
CW
or r
600 PW ste
lye
n Po
500 u
Sp
400
Elongation %
Identification:
Carefully clip the
thread between
adjacent needle
penetrations along
the seam and
observe if the
puckering is reduced
in the fabric. If it is,
then excessive
thread tension is the
probable cause of the
Use very light machine
thread tensions. Begin by
setting the bottom thread
tension (bobbin or looper)
as light as possible but still
maintain the proper thread
control. Next adjust the
needle thread tension to a
minimum level necessary to
maintain a closed seam and
a balanced stitch. This not
only reduces the elongation
of the thread in the seam,
but also improves loop
formation and sewability.
Reduce the thread size
Use a needle with a ball eye needle
Use a larger needle size
On 401 Chainstitch machines, adjust the stitch balance so the
needle loops on the bottom side of the seam lay over at least
half way to the next needle penetration when the looper
thread is unraveled out of the seam. The looper thread must
also be as loose as possible.
Feed puckering occurs
when one of the fabric
plies is fed into the
seam at a different rate
than the other ply or
plies.
Puckering
on one side
of seam
Puckering
on one side
of seam