Tests and Testing

Skin Test
Elasticity Test
Porosity Test
Strand Test
Incompatibility Test
Test Cutting
SKIN TESTING
THERE ARE 2 REASONS WHY WE SKIN TEST
1. to get a result Para content in tint
2 .as a duty to care
There are 2 types of reactions
1. Allergic
2. Irritant
Irritant
Client may be sensitive to an ingredient or the
product you are applying
They can also have an irritant reaction to the
smell of the product
This is an external reaction
It is confined to the area product is applied to
Allergic reaction
It is only as a formality we check for an allergic
reaction
Allergic reaction can occur at anytime
Takes up to 24-48 hours to occur
This is a severe reaction
The immune system starts to fight
Antibodies change shape and swell
Allergic reaction
Blisters on the skin taking several weeks to heal
Anaphylactic shock- severest reaction DEATH
Allergic reaction to hair colour
Allergic reaction to hair colour
Allergic reaction
Allergic reaction
How do we skin test

Each company have their own way of testing

Always follow manufacturers guidelines
Wella-Mix a small amount of colour with peroxide
and place behind ear with cotton bud
Inform client that it must stay on for the next 24-
48 hrs and of the type of reaction that may occur
if there is an allergy
Symptoms
Hot spots
Heat
Stinging
This is due to blood capillaries been aggravated in
the dermis
If this type of reactions occur you must remove
the product immediately
By not skin testing we are open to being sued and
permanent damage to your business
Elasticity test
Purpose is to check the hairs internal strength
Hair in good condition can hold a 100gms in
weight
Hair in poor condition can hold only 30gms in
weight
Hair which is in poor condition will not hold colour
well as there is to much space in the cortex
Hair in poor conditioned is known as sensitised
hair
Elasticity test
To perform an elasticity test

Take a few strands of hair and stretch between

fingers

Hair in good condition will stretch and return

Hair in poor condition will not return

Porosity test
2 types of porous hair
Naturally porous hair
Chemically /physically porous
Purpose of the test is to check the hairs ability to
absorb moisture in varying degrees
Condition of the cuticle- EXTERNAL DAMAGE
If the hair is externally damaged the effect is on
the outside
Cuticle scales could be broken or missing
Incompatibility test
We are looking for a reaction due to metallic salts
being present in the hair
Compound henna, some colour sticks, sun in

These products can contain metallic salts which

can have an adverse reaction to professional
products
Incompatibility Test
If no test was carried you could jeopardise the
condition of the hair
Breakage or complete disintegration
If client has used home colour ALWAYS carry out
an incompatibility test
To test- take cuttings of hair from various areas of
the head
Place in an non metallic bowl with 20ml of 20vol
liquid + 1ml ammonia solution
Incompatibility
Leave for 3-5 mins
Look for signs of bubbling attracting along the hair
shaft
Fizzing , heat, discolouration of hair, disintegration
of hair
If any of these reactions occur never proceed with
colour
Colour Test or Test Cutting
Test cutting done prior to colouring to check if
colour result will be even or will be achievable
Will the hair tolerate the service
To perform the test apply your chosen colour to
various cuttings from round the head (discreet
areas)
Develop for full development time
Rinse, dry and check
Colour Test / Test Cutting
Negative Result
When the desired colour is not achieved or
unsuitable for client
DO NOT PROCEED WITH COLOUR SERVICE
Positive Result
When the desired colour has been achieved and is
suitable for the client
PROCEED WITH COLOUR SERVICE
Strand test
This test is performed during the colouring
process
Ideally to check the lightening on bleaching and
tones when using toner
Remove a piece of colour using damp cotton wool
If colour achieved rinse and remove colour
If colour not achieved massage product back into
area removed from and further develop