Recent development in

denim manufacturing
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Prepared by
RAJIB CHANDRA
GOSH
 Introduction
Traditionally the denim fabric is made of 100 per cent cotton indigo dyed
warp and white weft yarn of coarser counts. Comfort and fit are very
important aspects of denim garments.
So, a lot of research has being done to make stretch denims. elastane fibers are
incorporated into the fabric.
Lycra and Spandex are used in weft yarn.
Ring and open-end core spun yarns are also used in denim to provide stretch property.
To impart fancy effect, different kinds of fancy yarns are being used. The examples of
such yarn are slub yarn and multi-count yarn Other synthetic fibers such as polyester
and polypropylene fibers are also used.
For making softer denim fabrics especially for women wear, blend of Modal, Promodal,
Tancel, and Rayon are being used. Bamboo fibers, hemp fibers and their blends are
being used to make denim fabrics.Now the scenario is different.
Denim fabrics has gained immense popularity and accepted by all irrespective of
gender, age-groups and profession. So, there is tremendous challenge on the part of
denim product manufactures to innovate and develop products to suit requirements of
different consumers. It is attempted to put latest developments in the field of denim
fabrics.
 Spinning section
Blow room
Yarn spinning starts with the transfer of the cotton bales from warehouse chosen
by a special software to the blowing room feeder as a initial step of yarn spinning
process. From this point onwards, cotton undergoes preparation processes like
cleaning, opening and blending with the content of other bales. During this
process, the fibers which are too short are extracted.
Carding machine
The cotton fibers are then subjected to a carding operation that ensures that the
fibers are parallel to each other.
The function of carding machine-
Opening of the fiber bundles to separate
Removal of extraneous and dust
Elimination of short fibers
Removal of neps
Obtaining fiber evenness
Blending properly
Producing sliver from cotton fibers
 Spinning section
Draw Frames
In draw-frames, slivers from different carding machines are brought together to
form a homogenous blend and parallelism of the fibers is further enhanced. The fiber
hook-ends that are a part of the fiber nature are flattened and fibers are further
elongated.

Roving Frames
In order to monitor the weight per unit length of the Sliver under control highly
developed electronic regulation systems are utlilized. The Sliver from the drawing
frame operation with uniform mass per unit length are further drawn out by the
roving frame operation.

Spinning Ring Frames

After this operation ,the Rovings are subjected to a further drawing out operation
on the ring machines and are further thinned out to the required yarn thickness.
The yarn produced through Ring Frame is more soft and has more strength and
character as compared to those produced by the Open End machines.
 Winding section
The last phase of the yarn production is the Winding
Process. Here the cops produced by the ring machines are
joined together and transformed into the bobbin format of
specific length . The joining process is very important
from the point of view of productivity of the subsequent
phases where bobbins will be used and final appearance
of the fabric. During the winding process , the yarns are
monitored for every mm of the way by high technology
sensors on the bobbin machines and the faulty areas that
may affect the texture of the fabric are eliminated. Any
yarn defects (unevenness, yarn count, thin & thick places
etc.) are detected and removed during winding. Yarn
spinning is completed by winding process.
 warping section
Two methods of warping are practiced. These are
ball warping and direct warping. Ball Warping from
the point of view of color quality and authentic
appearance is the preliminary preparation for the
Rope Dyeing System- which is the preferred system
of denim production. The yarns that will be used in
the warping of the fabric are stacked in the ball
warping machines Creel section and all brought to
the front of the machine to be transformed into
Rope . The Rope thus produced and Cones are
warped as ropes at ball warping and prepared for
Indigo rope dyeing process.
 Dyeing section
In the clothing sector, denim is an indigo blue evergreen.
Denim fabric is normally is produced by processing undyed
weft yarns with ring-dyed warp yarns. Ring dyeing is a
characteristic feature of denim production. In the conventional
process, the yarns are either processed as a hank (rope) or
spread out next to each other (slasher) and only the sheath is
dyed. The dye is applied in several treatment stages.
Comparison
Slasher dyeingbetween slasher dyeing and rope dyeing
Rope dyeing
process:
Continuous process Discontinuous process
Color depth 4.5% Color depth 5.5%
Immersion length 5m Immersion length 9m
Stage production process from Stages up to production of the weaving
the back beam to the weaving beam ( dyeing , long chain beamer,
beam sizing)
Production capacity 9-11 million Production capacity 22 million metres
metres
 New technology of dyeing (KARL MAYERs IOM-Double
technology)

A characteristic feature of denim production is that it is still carried out

using traditional methods, but this can now be done using highly
innovative technical systems. The result of this modernisation is that
production can be carried out more efficiently, using fewer resources and
more accurately, i.e. with better reproducibility.
KARL MAYER is the leader in producing the processing machine.KARL
MAYERs IOM-Double technology is based on the processing sequences of
SLASHER-DYEING but has the productivity advantages of ROPE-DYEING.
This innovative machine concept has been used successfully in Turkey in
particular for some years. Textile companies benefit from KARL MAYERs
IOM-Double technology.
 Advantages of KARL MAYERs IOM-Double technology

maximum production capacities of up to 22 million dyed metres, i.e. the

production
equivalent of 24 rope dyeing machines
the energy required for steaming and drying is reduced considerably.
improved heat transfer and reduced energy losses.
The interaction between optimum yarn loading, excellent flow-through
patterns and a high dye affinity, together with the specific working width
in the dyeing section, also results in an excellent product quality.
The process guarantees homogeneous dyeing properties as a function of
time
uniform dyeing across the working width (on the right, in the centre and
on the left).
The yarns are also transported and wound without becoming entangled.
immersion lengths of 1.5 m to 11.5 m
dye depths of up to 5.5%
 Weaving section
Nowadays, different functions and processing steps are integrated
into the weaving preparatory processes to increase quality,
flexibility and economic viability. Denim fabrics are mostly woven on
high speed air-jet looms. Various loom manufacturers are offering a
number of modifications to weave fault free high quality fabric.
Main parts of weaving machine:
Warp beam
Harness
Heddles
Reed
Shuttle
Drop pin
Fabric beam
Yarn carrier
 Development of Weaving
machine
here sheds the light on how the weaving machine manufacturers and woven fabric
producers might strengthen the weaving industry by further advanced the rapier
technology with the help of electro-mechanics, electronics, microprocessors,
information technology and their application to the production of woven fabrics.
Development in Filling Insertion
Versatility in Colour Insertion by Electronic Insertion
Picking Speed
Secure Filling Transfer
Versatility of Rapier Gripper
Prewinder Switch-off Monitoring
Light and Small Rapier Head
Electronic Filling Tension Controller
Filling Detection at the End of Insertion and Rapier Cleaning Device
Developments in Shedding Mechanism
Versatility- upto 10 healds; positive cams, maximum 8 harness frames, 12 mm pitch
Controllable Shed Geometry
Electronic Setting of Shed Crossing
Variable Shed Geometry
Shortest Drive Path
 Development of Weaving
machine
Development in Let-off Mechanism
The electronic motor driven let-off supplies the loom with
necessary wrap yarn, maintaining the yarn tension constant from
full beam to empty beam. Let-off speed is automatically
calculated in context with loom speed, weft density, wrap beam
diameter & close loop tension control.
Developments in Take-Up Mechanism
The take-up motion is also electronically controlled and synchronized
with let-off motion. Inside the machine the cloth is wound on to a 600
mm diameter cloth beam. External cloth beam on to batching motion
upto 1800 mm cloth roll diameter is also available. The required pick
density can be programmed on the microprocessor keyboard or the
jacquard control unit. The accuracy of the setting ensures easy to adjust
of the pick density of the fabric for optimum fabric weight and minimum
yarn consumption.
 Finishing section
Finishing section is consists of :
Desizing
Mercerizing
Stentering
Shrinkage controlling
Functional finishes : Functional finishes such as
antibacterial finishes, UV- protection finishes are
applied on denim fabrics to improve functional
performances of denim fabrics. The use of nano-clay is
also reported to impart old look, soft handle, flame
retardant and antibacterial properties to denim fabrics.
 Finishing method
Discontinuous finishing method for
weft- elastic denim
The semi-continuous finishing
method for weft- elastic denim
The fully continuous finishing method
for weft- elastic denim
The latest fully continuous finishing
method for weft- elastic denim
 Development of finishing section- (Monforts - possibilities for
finishing denim)

Monforts offers a wide variety of processes and ranges

for the finishing of denim. For the finishing of grey denim
fabric after cleaning and singeing, for example (e.g),
padders, foam applicators, minimum-liquor applicators,
numerous versions of stretching- and skewing-units,
dryers and compressive shrinkage ranges. Processes and
ranges are offered for desizing, mercerising, bleaching,
stripping, continuous dyeing, washing, drying and
coating in order to create special effects.
 Comparison between conventional
and Monforts finishing method
significantly lower stretching forces, less fabric tension, better look and feel with
higher production speed and simpler residual moisture control.
The fabric width, skew and number of filling threads is monitored by a special
camera and the measured values are converted into corresponding control pulses
for the range control.
The following stenter with upline Matex ECO-Applicator and a coating range is
then used either for finishing, drying of the coating or surface stabilisation
(fixing), depending on the article.
The machine settings depend on the process to be employed. The fabric arrives
at the range for the compressive shrinking process with a controlled residual
moisture content or with moisture application using the Matex ECO-Applicator.
Two rubber calenders and two felt calenders ensure a high production speed with
gentle use of the rubber blanket and effective energy consumption.
Two rubber calenders and two felt calenders are required to produce, for
example, denim of 14.5oz/yd with 1-2% residual shrinkage with at least 7m/min.
Low-tension guidance of the fabric during rolling is important for the end of the
process.
 Washing
Washing of denim garments is one of the most
important processes. This process adds a lot of
value to the final garment. In the washing process,
fading effect is imparted to the denim products.
There are many methods to impart faded effects.
The traditionally washing is done using any of the
methods or combinations such as stone washing,
washing with strong bleaching agents such as
sodium hypochlorite, potassium per magnet.
There are two types of denim washing :
Wet process
Dry process
 WET PROCESS
Rinse wash
Enzyme wash
Enzyme bleaching wash
Softeners wash
Acid wash
Rubber ball wash
Resin wash
Garments wash
Heavy enzyme and stone wash
Sand wash
Silicon wash
Tie wash
Pigment wash
 Dry process
Hand sand
Sand blast
Whisker
Laser whisker
Destroy
Pp spray
Tagging
Grinding
Crinkle
3-D Crinkle
PP rubbing
Resin spray
Heat pressing
Pocket marking
Seam marking
Center crease
 Development in washing of
denim fabrics
These processes are not environment friendly. Alternative
methods have been developed.
Cellulases enzymes are used in place of pumice stone to
impart abraded effect. Laccase based bleaching technique is
developed. This enzyme only attacks indigo dyed yarn bit does
affect nature of white weft yarn. It can also be used to bleach
fabrics containing elastane filaments without losing stretch
property.
Laser based techniques are used to give faded effect. Further
this technique can also be used to create motifs on the denim
fabrics.
Ozone base denim washing treatments have been developed.
In this process, ozone gas is used as bleaching agent, which
attacks indigo dyes and destroy to create faded look.
 World Denim Market

The world denim market is likely to grow

continuously for the next few years. However,
supply is growing at a faster pace.
World Jeans Market- 51.6$ Billion in 2007 and 56.2$
billion in 2014
Expected to become 61.4$ billion by 2021
Global demand growing at 7%, supply at 10%
Global Denim fabric production in 2015- 4.1 billion mtrs.
Over 50 percent of denim production is based in Asia
with China, India, Turkey, Pakistan and Bangladesh.
Between EU, US and China, 75% of world jeans
consumption.
 Estimated Share of Jeans Purchase By Region

North America : 39%

Western Europe : 20%
Japan & Korea : 10%
Rest of the world : 31%
 No. Of Denim Mills Worldwide

Region No. Of Denim

Mills
Asia(China) 297
Asia(Other countries) 104

North America 9
Europe 41
Latin America 46
Africa 15
Australia 3
Total Denim Mills 515
(World)
 Conclusion

In conclusion, it is well accepted that

denim is an evergreen fashion and
liked by all irrespective of gender, age
and profession. A lot of innovation and
research are to be done on continuous
basis to fulfill requirements of diverse
consumers keeping in mind its impact
on society and environment.