COSTING OF APPARELS

DOBBY FABRIC

Dobbyis a woven fabric produced on thedobby loom, characterized by

smallgeometricpatternsandextratextureinthecloth
Warpyarnsarecontrolledingroupsusingharnesses
Properties
Smallgeometricpatterns
MoretexturethanPlainweavefabrics
LesscomplexthanJacquardFabrics
Hundredsofdifferentpatternscanbemade
Flexible
GoodDrape
SlightStretch
Resistanttocreasing

EndUsesShirts,Dresses,Outerwear,Poloshirts
 JACQUARDFABRIC

It is a fabric woven on a special loom called the

jacquard loom. This loom allows individual control on
interlacingofuptoseveralhundredwarpthreadsthat
cangivebirthtoinnumerableuniquepatterns
TypesBrocade,Damask,Matelasseetc
Properties
Intricatepatterns
Strong
Resilient
Waffleweaveeffect
Stretchable
 TYPESOFJACQUARD
Type Description Uses
Brocade Patternedfabricwovenwiththehelpof Upholsteryand
multi-colouredthreads.Itshowsaraised Decorativeclothing
patterninreliefagainstthebackground

Damask Muchfinerandsheerthanitappears.Itis Upholstery

alsoapatternedfabricwovenmostlywith
singlecolour
French JacquardCrepe Forcomfort&wrinkle
Jacquard freeclothes
Poly ComprisesablendofPolyesterand Apparels
Catonic Catonicyarn,whichgivesitaDualDyeing
Jacquard effectforuniquecolouringeffects
Jacquard Generallymadeofnylonsmooth& Intimatewear
Nets comfortable
Velour Knittedjacquardstretchproperties Performancewear
Jacquard
Matelasse Givesaquiltedeffectgoodwashcare, Upholstery,blankets
colorfastness,lesspilling
DifferencebetweenDobby&JacquardWeave

Description Dobby shedding Jacquard shedding

Mediumi.e.complex Elaboratei.e.very
Designcapacity
structure. complexstructure.
Itcancontrolmaximum48,
butpracticallyforwoolno.
Itcancontrolanyno.of
No.ofhealdshaft ofhealdshaft-36&for
warpthreadindividually.
cottonno.ofhealdshaft
-24.
Speedofloom High Slow
Fordifferentdesigns, Fordifferentdesigns,
differentdesignofpegging differentdesigned
Design
legsareplacedon pinchedcardsare
cylinder/patterndrum. placesoncylinder.
Costoffabric Expansive. Highlyexpensive.
Productionrate Lessproduction. Lessproduction.
 COMPLICATIONS&DISADVANTAGES

Largescalemovingpartsmakesthemachineandits
harnessrelativelycostlytoinstallandmaintain.

Jacquardmachinesareevenmoreliabletoproducefaults
inthefabricthandobby

Patternchangeisatimeconsumingprocess

Oversheddingstrainsandbreaksthewarpthreads

Undersheddingdoesnotpermitthepassageofthe
shuttlethroughtheshed
 COSTOFTHEFABRIC

Dobby&Jacquardfabricsarecostlybecauseofthetime
&skillinvolvedinmakingthejacquardcards,preparing
theloomforsuchpatterns&slownessoftheweaving
operation.
CostoftheDobby&Jacquardfabricdependsupon
Complexityofdesign
Numberofcolors
Fibercontent
Typeofyarn
Numberofpunchcard
 Fiber Content 100%cotton
BirdseyeCotton Structure Diamondshape
weavepattern
GSM
Width of the 44
Fabric
Sampling Cost INR90/mtr
Production Cost INR55/mtr
Additional Smooth&Thin,
Information Highlyabsorbent
Uses Tablemats,
diapers,blankets
 Fiber Content Cotton&Lurex
SwissDotswith Blend
LurexThread Structure
GSM 120
Width of the 44
Fabric
Sampling Cost Rs.170/mtr
Production Cost Rs.90forminimum
1000mtr
Additional LeadTime:25
Information Days
Uses Dresses,blouses,
shirts
 Fiber Content 100%Cotton
SwissDotDobby Structure 108x90

GSM 120GSM

Width of the 44
Fabric

Sampling Cost Rs.175/mtr

Production Cost Rs100/mtr

Additional LeadTime:30
Information Days

Uses Dresses,Shirts
 Fiber Content 100%Cotton
YarnDyedDobby Structure Yarndyed72x64

GSM 110

Width of the 57
Fabric

Sampling Cost Rs.200/mtr

Production Cost Rs.150

Additional LeadTime:25
Information Days

Uses Shirts,womens
structuredapparel
 Fiber Content 100%Cotton
LeopaltDobby
Structure 60s

GSM 120

Width of the 44
Fabric

Sampling Cost Rs.120/mtr

Production Cost Rs.68./mtr

Additional LeadTime:25
Information Days

Uses Shirts,dresses
 Fiber Content 100%Cotton

ChecksDobby Structure 60s

GSM 100

Width of the 47
Fabric

Sampling Cost Rs.110/mtr

Production Cost Rs.68/mtr

Additional LeadTime:25
Information Days

Uses Shirts,dresses
 Fiber Content 100%Polyester
Matelasse Structure
GSM 160GSM
Width of the 44
Fabric

Sampling Cost Rs.250/mtr

Production Cost Rs160/mtr
Additional Quiltedpattern
Information

Uses Blankets,cushion
covers,jackets
Two Color Jacquard Weave Fiber Content 21%Polyester,
22%Cotton,57%
S.Viscose

Structure
GSM 550GSM
Width of the 56
Fabric

Sampling Cost INR450/mtr

Production Cost INR325/mtr
Additional Geometricpattern
Information

Uses Upholstery
Two Color Jacquard Fiber Content 100%polyester
Weave - Brocade Structure
GSM 280GSM
Width of the 54
Fabric

Sampling Cost INR550/mtr

Production Cost INR380/mtr
Additional Raisedsurface
Information

Uses Upholsteryand
heavygarments
Brocade Fiber Content 100%polyester

Structure

GSM 220GSM

Width of the 44
Fabric

Sampling Cost INR220/mtr

Production Cost INR140/mtr

Additional Leadtime45
Information days

Uses Apparel,home
textiles
Two Color Abstract Design Fiber Content 100%Polyester
Jacquard Weave
Structure

GSM 350

Width of the 54
Fabric

Sampling Cost Rs.550/mtr

Production Cost Rs.490/mtr

Additional
Information

Uses Upholstery
Jacquard Weave with Fiber Content PolyCotton&
Lurex
Lurex Thread
Structure
GSM 420GSM
Width of the 54
Fabric

Sampling Cost Rs.500/m

Production Cost Rs350/mtr
Additional
Information

Uses Upholstery
Three Color Fiber Content PolyCotton
Jacquard Weave Structure

GSM 450GSM

Width of the 54
Fabric

Sampling Cost Rs.500/m

Production Cost Rs.350/mtr

Additional Upholstery
Information
 Fiber Content 100%cotton
SwirlJacquard Structure

GSM 130GSM

Width of the 44
Fabric

Sampling Cost Rs.150/m

Production Cost Rs95/mtr

Additional
Information

Uses Scarves,Apparel,
Trims
 Fiber Content 100%Cotton

JacquardKnit Structure 30scotton

GSM 200GSM

Width of the 86
Fabric

Sampling Cost Rs.400/kg

Production Cost Rs150/kg

Additional Knittedfabric,
Information melangeplussolid
dyedcottonyarn

Uses T-shirts
 Fiber Content PolyAcrylicblend
MultiColorPoly
Structure 22x19
AcrylicJacquard
GSM 300GSM

Width of the 40
Fabric

Sampling Cost Rs.350/mtr

Production Cost Rs260/mtr

Additional
Information

Uses Upholstery,
drapes,bags,trims
ViscoseOnecolor Fiber Content 100%Viscose

Jacquard Structure

GSM 110GSM

Width of the 44
Fabric

Sampling Cost Rs.190/mtr

Production Cost Rs135/mtr

Additional
Information

Uses Blouses,kurtas,
accessories
 Threads
Sewingthreadsareengineeredanddesignedtopassthroughasewingmachine
rapidly,toformastitchefficiently,andtofunctionwhileinasewnproductwithout
breakingorbecomingdistortedforatleasttheusefullifeoftheproduct.

FibresUsedForThreads
Cottonisthemost Rayonisusedfor Polyesterthreadis Nylonthreadis
widelyused threadintended anallpurpose knownforits
becauseofits primarilyfor threadandoften strength,flexibility
lowercostand embroideryor hasawaxor andstretch.Itis
highversatility. fancystitchwork siliconefinish mostlyusedin
ratherthanfor whichallowsitto leathergoods,
actualseamingto slipthroughthe handbags,shoes
holdparts fabriceasily. etc.
together.
ImportantFactorsinThreadSelection
ThreadSize:Finerthreadstendtoburybelowthefabricsurfaceandare
subjectedtolessabrasionthanseamswithheavierthreads

ThreadStrength:Thebreakingstrengthofaseamshouldbelessthanthatof
thefabricwhichhasbeensewn

GarmentCleaning:Ifthegarmentistobewashedinhotwater,thenthethread
shouldhaveexcellentresistancetocolourchange.
Factors affecting thread performance
Threadusedingarmentsmustbedurableenoughto
withstandtheabrasionandneedleheatthatoccurwhile
sewing,garmentfinishing,stretchingandrecovery
duringwear.
Threadperformanceingarmentscanbeevaluatedfrom
its
Seamstrength
Abrasionresistance
Elasticity
Chemicalresistance
Flammability
Colourfastness
Threadclassification
Threadcanbeclassifiedindifferentways.Somecommon
classificationsarethosebasedon:

Substrate
Construction
Finish
Classificationbasedonsubstrate
Natural
Theusageofthreadmadefromnaturalsubstratesis
nowminimalinindustryapplications.However,themost
commonlyusednaturalthreadiscottonthread.

Synthetic
Duetothelimitationsofnaturalfibres,threadusershave
turnedtothreadsmadefromsyntheticfibresasthey
havedesirablepropertiesofexceptionallyhightenacity,
highresistancetoabrasionandgoodresistanceto
chemicals.Theyarealsonotsignificantlyaffectedby
moisture,rot,mildew,insectsorbacteria.
Classificationbasedonconstructionthread
structure
Spunthread-Madeusingnaturalorsyntheticfibres.
Spunpolyesterisoneofthemostwidelyusedthreads.It
isstrongerthancottonthreadsofacomparablesize,and
isavailableinawidevarietyofsizesandcolours.

Corespunthread-CorespunThreadisacombinationof
staplefibresandfilaments.Themostcommonlyused
corespunthreadhasmultiple-plyconstruction,witheach
plyconsistingofapolyesterfilamentcorewithcottonor
polyesterfibreswrappedaroundthecore.

Filament threadsarestrongerthanspunthreadsofthe
samefibreandsize.
Classificationbasedonthreadfinish

Finishesaregiventoathreadfortwopurposes

To improve sewability
Somefinishesinvolveincreasingstrength,abrasion
resistanceandlubricationofthethread

To achieve a specific functional requirement

Somefinishesincludebonding,nonwick,anti-fungal,fire
retardant,waterrepellentandanti-staticfinishes.
Material PolyesterLurexMix
Source PrabhaEnterprises
Price Rs.50/spool
ProductionPrice Rs.40/spool
AdditionalInformation 50metrein1spool

Material Lurex
Source PrabhaEnterprises
Price Rs.120/spool
ProductionPrice Rs.96/spool
AdditionalInformation 1000metrein1spool,1Ply
Material 100%spunPolyester(denim
thread)
Source Arconthreads
Price Rs.160/cone
ProductionPrice Rs.120/cone
AdditionalInformation Usedinstitchingdenim,3ply

Material 100%spunPolyester
Source Arconthreads
Price Rs.10/spool
ProductionPrice Rs.6/spool
AdditionalInformation Tkt-50,2ply
Material Polyester Cotton core spun
Source MaduraCoatsPvtLtd
Price Rs.167/cone
ProductionPrice Rs.130/cone
AdditionalInformation Tex-040;Tkt-075;2ply

Material Art Silk Thread Poly Silk 2Ply

Source MJTraders,Govindpuri
Price Rs.15/spool
ProductionPrice Rs.10/spool
AdditionalInformation Highsheenyarn,400m/spool
Material 100%AcrylicThread
Source BhomiajiThreadTraders
Price Rs.200/spool
ProductionPrice Rs.140/spool
AdditionalInformation 2x32s,2Ply,1spool=0.5Kg

Material 4PlyCottonThread
Source NarangThreads
Price Rs.60/bundle
ProductionPrice Rs.30/bundle
AdditionalInformation 1bundle=150metres
Material 100%NylonThread
Source BhomiajiThreadTraders
Price Rs.70/cone
ProductionPrice Rs.50/cone
AdditionalInformation 3Ply,1cone=500metres

Material EmbroideryThread
Source MJTraders
Price Rs.10/bundle
ProductionPrice Rs.4/bundle
AdditionalInformation 100%Cotton,8mtr/bundle,6ply
Thank You!
Submitted by:
Aarohi Mehra
Aditi Kedia
Akshay Garg
Anisha Suri
Isha Garg
Vaishali Batra