Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Considering no variation in Y-
direction
where )
)
Dispersion Relationship
Solution (for deep water)
Velocity Potential
Equation of Sea
Surface
Where
Components of Particle
Velocity
Wave Group Velocity
When
a group of waves propagates, its speed will in
general not be similar to that of the speed with
which individual waves within the group travel. If
any two wave trains of the same amplitude, but
slightly different wave lengths or periods, progress
in the same direction, the resultant surface
disturbance can be represented as the sum of the
individual disturbances.
CG = where )
Deep Waves CG = gT/4 =c/2 Group Vel =
Phase Vel
Shallow Waves Group Vel = Phase Vel
Total Energy per unit Area
MODELLING AN
IRREGULAR SEA
THE OCEAN WAVES THAT WE OBSERVE ARE A COMPLEX OF MANY
DIFFERENT SETS OF WAVES OF DIFFERENT WAVELENGTHS, PERIODS
AND HEIGHT
Modeling of Irregular Sea
The linear wave theory allows us to
represent the sea surface as the
superposition of a large number of
sine waves, that is
Superposition of 4 Waves
Wave data collection
ORBITAL
FOLLOWING BOUY WAVE STAFF ON
PLATFORM
WAVE SLOPE
BOUY PRESSURE SENSOR
NONDIRECTIONAL NEAR BOTTOM
ACCELEROMETER
BOUY
WAVE ORBITAL
VELOCITY SENSOR
ACOUSTIC
SENSOR
Wave data analysis
Continuous data
Time domain &
frequency domain
analysis
Discrete data
Statistical analysis
Ocean (Irregular) Waves
Definitions
TC
TZ
TD
TU