SkillDrill Section4 Ch48

Chapter 48
Servicing and Maintaining

Drive Axles
Inspecting Drive Axles for Leaks
and Determining the Cause
48-1
Put the vehicle on an approved lift and
make sure it is secure. Visually inspect
around the housing where the axle seats
for any seepage.
Inspect the pinion flange for any
seepage.
If necessary, remove the rear wheels
and install a dial indicator on the axle
flange to check for any distortion.
Inspecting Drive Axles for Leaks
and Determining the Cause
48-1
Check and clean the breather or vent for
any obstructions that may cause a
pressure build-up to occur.
Check the differential rear cover for a
leaking gasket, if so equipped. Tighten it
if it is loose or replace as necessary.
Check the fluid level for lack of fluid or
overfilling of the differential, as either
one can indicate that a leak is present.
Changing the Lubricant and
Filters on a Drive Axle
48-2
Remove the axle drain plug, and drain
the lube into a suitable container. Allow
time for the lube to drain completely.
NOTE: When working with some axles,
there may be more than one drain point.
Consult the OEM manual for the
particular model being serviced.
Reinstall the drain plug and torque to
35 ft-lb (47 Nm).
48-2
Remove the fill plug in the rear of the
axle, and fill the axle with the
recommended lubricant to the level of
the bottom of the fill hole. NOTE: If the
mounting angle of the drive axle is
severe (more than 7 or 8 degrees), it
may be necessary to fill from an
alternate location. Check the service
manual for the particular axle being
serviced.
48-2
Raise the axle right hand side by six
inches or more. Leave it sit like that for
one minute before lowering the right
hand side. This ensures that the wheel
hubs have the correct level of lubricant.
Repeat Step 4 for the left hand side of
the axle. Failure to perform this
procedure for both sides of the axle may
result in the hub bearings having a lack
on lubricant and subsequent failure of
the bearings!
48-2
Allow the axle to rest for one minute.
Then check and top up the fluid as
necessary until it is level with the bottom
of the fill hole.
Reinstall the fill plug and torque to
35 ft-lb (47 Nm).
Removing the Differential Carrier 48-3
Support the vehicle on stands at a
sufficient level that allows enough room
to work beneath it and remove the
differential carrier without interference
from the frame and/or suspension.
Remove the driveshaft from the drive
axle and ensure it is sufficiently out of
the way to allow differential carrier
removal.
Drain the axle fluid into a suitable
container. The fluid can be an important
indicator of the axles condition. Watch
for evidence of metal contamination,
indicating extreme wear, or sludge,
usually caused by overheating or lack of
lubricant.
Loosen the nuts holding the axles in
place at the wheel hub until they are
holding by one or two threads. Leave
them in place to stop the axle stud
locating wedges from flying off.
Using a large brass drift and a hammer,
strike the axle flanges to loosen the
tapered locating wedges in the axles.
These steel wedges center the axle
shaft as it is bolted to the wheel hub.
Remove the nuts, wedges, and the axles
and mark the axles as either right or left.
Support the differential carrier with a
suitable floor jack and platform designed
for the purpose. Restrain the front of the
differential carrier to the jack. The rear
side of the carrier is much heavier than
the front and will try to roll off as it is
removed. Before removing the
differential carrier attaching bolts, ensure
the carrier is securely supported.
Remove the differential carrier retaining
cap screws or stud nuts, leaving the top
two loose to hold the weight while the
carrier mounting flange is loosened.
Loosen the differential carrier-to-housing
mounting flange by using a pry bar in the
pry slots on the flange or by moving the
front of the housing back and forth.
Remove the top two retainers, pull the
differential carrier forward, and lower it to
the floor.
Mount the differential carrier in a suitable
stand for overhaul.
Disassembling the
Differential Carrier
48-4
Mark with punch marks one of the
differential side bearing bore legs (the
bore in the casting that holds the side
bearing races) and the bearing retaining
caps (semi-circular caps that clamp the
side bearing into the casting). This
allows the caps to be reinstalled on the
correct side.
Disassembling the
48-4
If the differential carrier has a thrust
screw, loosen the jamb nut and back out
or remove the thrust screw. The thrust
screw (circled) will be located on the ring
gear side of the differential carrier
housing.
Disassembling the
48-4
Remove the bearing adjuster locks
B A
(cotter pins, lock plates, and so on that
stop the adjusters from turning) and
C
loosen the four (or more) bearing cap
retaining cap screws. Back out the
bearing adjusters (threaded rings that
position the side bearings) two to three
turns. Remove the bearing capscrews
(A), support caps (B), and the adjusters
(C). Keep each side together as a set to
ensure you will be able to reinstall them
in the correct location.
Disassembling the
48-4
Using a sling and a hoist, remove the
differential case and crown gear as an
assembly and place it on a work bench.
Remove the taper roller bearings from
either the differential case or the pinion
gear using a wedge-type bearing puller.
Place the assembly in the press with the
puller vertical at first. This will allow the
puller to loosen the bearing.
Disassembling the
48-4
After the bearing has been loosened,
retighten the wedge-type puller and
install the assembly into the press
horizontally to finish the removal
procedure.
Disassembling the
48-4
Remove the crown gear, if replacing, by
removing the retaining cap screws or
drilling and punching out the rivets. The
crown gear may need to be pressed off
or lightly tapped off the differential case
with a soft hammer. Always protect the
crown gear from damage from falling.
Disassembling the
Differential Case
48-5
Place the differential case on the bench
with the flange side down. Mark the
differential case halves with a punch so
that they can be reassembled in the
correct position. Remove the differential
case cap screws.
Disassembling the
Differential Case
48-5
Remove the plain half of the differential
case. The plain half of the differential
case is opposite the crown gear side. It
may be necessary to lightly tap the case
to separate the two halves.
Disassembling the
Differential Case
48-5
Remove the thrust washer and right
hand side gear. Then remove the cross,
spider gears, and their thrust washers
together. Remove each spider gear and
thrust washer.
Disassembling the
Differential Case
48-5
Remove the left side gear and thrust
washer and check the running surfaces
of the differential case and the side
gears for wear.
Setting Pinion Bearing Preload 48-6
Support the pinion under a press. Then,
using a correctly sized sleeve, press on
the outer bearing inner race. Increase
the press load to the amount
recommended in the overhaul manual,
typically 10 to 20 tons (9 t, 72 kg to 18 t,
144 kg). This load will accurately
represent the load placed on the
bearings when the pinion yoke or gear is
properly torqued.
Tie a length of string to one of the cage
mounting holes and wrap the string
around the pinion cage several times.
Attach a pull scale that reads in pounds
or kilograms to the other end of the
string. In a steady motion, start rotating
the cage by hand and keep it rotating by
pulling the scale.
Record the force required to keep the
cage rotating, NOT the force required to
start it rotating.
Multiply the pounds or kilograms pulled
by the radius of the cage where the
string was attached. This will indicate the
rotating torque of the pinion in inch-
pounds or kilograms per centimeter.
Typical settings are between 15 and 30
inch-pounds or 17 and 34
kilograms/centimeter. Always check the
OEM manual for the correct
specification.
After installing the two cage cups, oil the

bearings and place them into the cage
with the original spacer between them.
Use the press to the correct press load,
supporting the rear bearing inner race,
and pressing on the outer bearing inner
race. Measure the rotating torque as
above, and keep adjusting the size of
the bearing spacer until the torque is
correct. Then select a spacer 0.001"
(0.025 mm) thicker to allow for bearing
growththe bearings will enlarge slightly
as they are pressed onto the pinion. This
should result in the correct rotating
torque on final assembly.
Reassembling the
Differential Case
48-7
Press the side bearing cones on the
differential case halves using a suitable
driving sleeve that pushes on the inner
race.
Assemble the differential gears and the
case as follows:
a. Put one thrust washer and side gear into
the flange case half.
b. Place the spider gears on the spider or
cross and the spider gear thrust washers
into place.
Reassembling the
Differential Case
48-7
c. Install the other side gear and its thrust
washer.
d. Lining up the match marks made before
disassembly, install the plain case half
over the assembled differential gear and
torque to specification, typically in the
area of 115 to 130 ft-lb (156 to 176 Nm).
Check the OEM manual for the correct
specifications.
Reassembling the
Differential Case
48-7
Check the rotation of the differential
gears. They may require up to 50 ft-lb
(68 Nm) torque to rotate. Check the
OEM manual for the specification. If the
required torque is higher than specified,
it indicates a problem. Disassemble and
recheck the gears for damage. The
gears may turn at lower torque values
but there should be no perceptible play
in the gears.
Reassembling the
Differential Case
48-7
Install the crown gear onto the flange
half of the differential case and tighten
the nuts and bolts to specification. Note
that some crown gears may need light
heating to fit on to the flange. Always
heat in an oven to no more than the
specified temperature or damage to the
gear will occur. NEVER use an oxy-
acetylene torch to heat the gear as its
manufacturers heat treating will be
destroyed.
Setting Side Bearing Preload 48-8
Lubricate the differential side bearings
and install the differential case with the
bearing cups into the differential carrier.
Install the adjusters and the bearing
caps, aligning the match marks on the
cap and differential carrier bearing bore
that were made at disassembly. Be very
careful to ensure that the adjuster
threads are not cross-threaded. Take
some time and make sure they are in
place correctly. Do not try to thread them
in from the outside of the cap. Tighten
the cap screws on the bearing cap finger
tight or lightly tighten with a wrench until
the caps are flush to the differential
carrier.
Adjust the plain case halfthe side
opposite the crown gearbearing
adjuster outward until one thread is
visible outboard of its bearing cap.
Install a magnetic base dial indicator so
that the finger indicates the back of one
of the crown gear teeth. Keep checking
for backlash until the crown gear is tight
against the pinion gear and all backlash
is eliminated.
Tighten the flange side adjuster using a
bearing adjusting tool, while checking for
gear set backlash until there is no
backlash (i.e., the crown gear is pushed
up against the pinion gear).
Rotate the crown gear through one full
rotation, again checking for gear set
backlash, and tighten the adjuster at the
point where the most backlash is
measured until again there is no
backlash. This ensures that the side
bearings are properly seated.
Tighten the plain side bearing adjuster
until measured backlash is
approximately 0.002" (0.051 mm). This
backlash proves that the bearing caps
have moved outward from
the pressure and establishes the correct
amount of side bearing preload.
Set the gear set backlash to the
specification. That is typically between
0.006" and 0.018" (0.152 and 0.457 mm)
for new gearing. If using the old crown
and pinion, set backlash to the amount
measured before disassembly. To set
backlash while maintaining the side
bearing preload, back off one bearing
adjuster and tighten the other one by the
exact same amount. This way the crown
gear can be moved toward the pinion
gear (to decrease backlash) or away
from the pinion gear (to increase
backlash) without changing the side
bearing preload already established.
When backlash is correct, torque the
cap screws on the side bearing caps to
the specification, which can be in excess
of 350 ft-lb (488 Nm) on heavy-duty
drive axles.
Measuring Crown Gear Runout 48-9
Locate and follow the appropriate
procedure in the service manual.
Complete the accompanying job sheet
or work order with all pertinent
information.
Place a dial indicator with magnetic base
to the differential carriers flange.
Position the plunger or pointer against
the back of the ring gear, and set the dial
indicator to zero. Make sure the indicator
is stable. If not stable, you may get an
inaccurate reading.
Rotate the ring gear and differential
while reading the dial indicator.
Record the total indicated runout (TIR)
by adding the high and low spots. For
example [+.010" (0.254 mm)] + [0.003"
(0.0762 mm)] would be 0.013" (0.330
mm) TIR.
Check total against manufacturers
specifications. Total runout should not
normally exceed 5" (0.2 mm). If runout
exceeds specifications, the differential
and ring gear assembly must be
removed from the carrier, and Steps 8,
9, and 10 must be completed. If runout
is within specifications, the procedure is
complete.
Check all parts of the differential and
carrier for the damage that caused the
runout to exceed specifications.
Repair or replace parts.
Reinstall differential and ring gear into
the carrier and recheck runout.
List the test results and/or
recommendations on the job sheet or
work order, clean work area, and return
tools and materials to proper storage.
Disassembling the Power Divider 48-10
Turn the support stand so that the power
divider housing is facing up. Loosen the
input yoke attaching nut and use a
suitable puller to remove the yoke.
Remove the cap screws and lock
washers that secure the power divider
housing to the differential carrier housing
and use a sling and hoist to lift the
housing clear.
If the power divider housing is tight to
the differential carrier, lightly tap the
drive yoke to loosen it or tap the housing
near the dowel pins to break it free.
Always support the weight of a
component with appropriate equipment.
Remove the power divider assembly and
place it on a work bench. Remove the
inter-axle differential from the differential
carrier housing and set aside. The
interaxle differential may be welded
together and non-serviceable. If that is
the case, it must be replaced.
Remove the front side gear/drop gear of
the inter-axle differential by removing the
snap ring holding the front side
gear/drop gear to the input shaft. Then
remove the side gear/drop gear, the
thrust washer, and D washer (if
equipped). Set everything aside. If not
already removed, remove the input yoke.
Hold the yoke in a holding fixture to
remove the nut. The torque on this nut is
usually in excess of 1,000 ft-lb (1,355
Nm). Use a puller, if necessary, to
remove the yoke from the input shaft.
Remove the nut that secures the oil
pump drive gear and remove the gear.
Remove the differential lock cylinder
from the front of the housing. Remove
the shift bar nut and the shift piston and
spring.
Remove the shift bar and yoke and the
inter-axle differential sliding clutch from
the rear of the housing. (This may have
to done as the input shaft is removed.)
Remove the cap screws and washers
securing the input shaft bearing cage to
the front of the housing. Remove the
input bearing cage and its shim pack.
Measure and record the shim pack
thickness for use on reassembly. Be
careful not to misplace the shimsthese
shims are responsible for setting input
shaft endplay, and you will need them
during reassembly.
Remove the input shaft from the front of
the housing.
Remove the cap screws holding the oil
pump cover to the front of the housing
and remove the oil pump. Discard the
seal. Remove the magnetic lube strainer
screen from the power divider front
cover. Remove the pipe plug in the front
cover to aid in cleaning the housing lube
passages. Use the inter-axle differential
sliding clutch to press the input bearing
from the input shaft. Place the sliding
clutch on the input shaft against the
back of the bearing, with clutching teeth
up, and press the bearing off.
Remove the output shaft by pulling it up
and out of the differential carrier cover.
Discard the two O-rings. Remove the
output shaft snap ring and remove the
side gear and bearing. Replace the
bearing by pressing it off the side gear
with a suitable bearing puller. Replace
the output shaft bearing cup in the
housing. Clean all components and
inspect carefully, as described
previously, to determine suitability for
reuse. Clean lube passages in the
power divider cover.
Reassembling the Power Divider 48-11
Press a new bearing onto the output
shaft side gear. Install it on the output
shaft, and install the snap ring. Install
two new O-rings.
Replace the output shaft bearing cup in
the housing and install the output shaft.
If the output shaft has a spring and
button, install them now.
Install the inter-axle differential.
Reassemble the input shaft by pressing
on a new bearing cone and installing the
side gear/drop gear and the snap ring.
Slide the differential lock sliding clutch
over the shaft and fit the shift yoke and
bar into the groove on the sliding clutch.
Reinstall the oil plug, the magnetic
strainer, the oil pump gears, and the oil
pump cover with a new O-ring seal.
Install the oil pump drive gear and
retaining nut.
Slide the assembled shaft into place in
the cover, feeding the shift yoke bar
through the hole.
Install a new bearing cup and yoke seal
in the input shaft bearing retainer cap
and install it with the original shim pack.
Leave the cap screws finger tight only.
Use a silicone-based gasket compound
and install the assembled cover on the
differential carrier. Tighten the cap
screws to specification.
Checking Input Shaft End Play 48-12
With the power divider cover installed,
remove the input shaft bearing retainer
and the shim pack. Hold the bearing
retainer against the power divider cover
with finger pressure and measure the
clearance between the retainer and the
cover with a feeler gauge.
Checking Input Shaft End Play 48-12
Add 0.005" (0.127 mm) to the
measurement above if new gearing is
installed and 0.015" (0.381 mm) if the
old gearing was reused. This will result
in the proper endplay of 0.003" to 0.007"
(0.076 to 0.178 mm) for new gearing and
0.013" to 0.017" (0.330 to
0.432 mm) for used gearing.
Install the correct amount of shims, then
torque the bearing retainer cap screws
to specification and recheck the endplay.
If the endplay is in the correct range,
install an input yoke washer and torque
the retaining nut to specification.
Reinstalling the Differential Carrier
or Power Divider Assembly 48-13
Clean the axle housing interior with rags
and a mild solvent to remove any metal
particles. Clean flange mounting surface
of all old gasket material.
Run a new bead of silicone gasket
compound or install a new gasket. Install
the differential carrier by reversing the
removal process.
Install both axle shafts with a new gasket
installing the locating wedges and
nuts. Torque the nuts to the correct
specification.
Reinstalling the Differential Carrier
or Power Divider Assembly 48-13
Connect all air lines. Fill the axle with the
correct lubricant until it is level with the
fill hole. Lift the right side of the vehicle
six inches or more for one minute. Then
lower the right side and lift the left side
for the same amount of time. Lower the
left side and let the vehicle sit for one
minute. Recheck and top up lubricant as
necessary. This procedure ensures that
the wheel hubs have a sufficient level of
lubricant and that the level in the drive
axle housing is correct.

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Chapter 48

Servicing and Maintaining

After installing the two cage cups, oil the

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