Plasma is four states of matter

Here material having in ionized condition

Plasma is produce by applying electric field on a gas
Plasma is etching the fabric surface
Etching is depend upon the voltage, type of gas, time
 Plasma dyeing is a very surface sensitive
method.
It is a revolutionary way to carry dye to fabric
and fabric surfaces.
It is so advanced that it not only colors the yarn,
but also thousands of filaments in each piece of
yarn, yielding rich, brilliant colors. Penetration
is complete
It produces superior results compared to
sublimation printing and conventional dyeing,
but that is just the beginning of its advantages.
PRINCIPLE OF PLASMA PROCESSING

If a textile to be functionalized is placed in a reaction

chamber with any gas and the plasma is then ignited,
the generated particles interact with the surface of the
textile.

In this way the surface is specifically structured,

chemically functionalized or even coated with nm-thin
film depending on the type of gas.
How plasma works on textiles?
It is only a surface reaction.
Modifies the surface in nm range (100nm)
Coat the fibre with nm thin film depending on gas
used.
This technique can be used to make fibre.
ADVANTAGES OF PLASMA DYEING
PLASMA dyeing technology reduces detrimental
impacts on the environment.
The result is more beautiful colors.
Substantially less water and chemicals discharged.
Maximum color durability
Producing luxuriously brilliant color.
Soil-resistant, flame-retardant,
Plasma treatment modifies the fibre surface rather than
its interior
 Hydrophilic properties can be imparted by oxygen
plasma.
Hydrophobic properties can be imparted by
Hexafloroethane plasma.
Improve colour fastness.
Improve dyeing rates.
Improve shrinkage resistance.
Reduce inflammability.
Improved pigment fixation.
Flouring plasma for medical textiles.
Anti felting on wool.
To facilitate the removal of size & contaminants
ULTRASONIC ASSISTED WET PROCESSING:
>20KHz (20KHz to 500MHz) Ultrasonic range
Higher the frequency, shorter the wavelength.
What is frequency?
It is the number of cycles per second.
What is Compression and rarefactions?
It is the areas of high & low local pressure e.g. Ultrasound
Gives rise to cavities and bubbles.
Create shock waves.
Formation of bubble and its collapse and is responsible for
ultrasonic effect insolid/liquid.
Textile applications:
Cleaning of textiles.
Reduces average size of dye particles.
Reduces glass transition temperature (Tg)
Increase the swelling of cellulosic fibres. (Unmercerized-50%).
Swelling is retained upto 1 hour after removal of ultrasound.
Wet processing application.
Use of electricity in place of expensive thermal energy.
Can be applied in desizing, scouring, bleaching, washing,
dyeing and finishing.
Trials of use of ultrasonic in dyeing of cotton with direct, wool
with acid dyes and polyester with disperse dyes.
Creates greater evenness.
 A frequency of 20 KHz is suitable to produce
cavitations.
Creation of micro bubbles (Unstable) or
cavities .
Most suitable for polyester.
a) Break the dye particles.
b) Stabilize the dispersion.
c) Reduces Tg (Glass transition temperature).
d) Accelerates diffusion.
Advantages:
1. Low temperature dyeing leads to energy
savings.
2. Reduced processing time.
3. Reduced consumption of auxiliaries/chemicals.
4. Increased colour yield.
5. Less effluent load.
Limitations:
1. Only laboratory trials.
2. More effective for water insoluble dyes.
NATURAL DYES:
Natural dyes comprise those colours (dyes & Pigments) that are
obtained from animal or vegetable matter without chemical
processing.
Sources of Natural dyes:
1) Specialized plants and animal sources
Many plants and some animals are potentially rich in natural
dye content. Variousparts of plants like roots, stems, bark,
leaves, fruits and seed contains coloring matter. The depth and
shade will vary according to time of year.
2) By products (lac dye)
The lac industry give lac dye as a byproduct which is extracted
from effluent. (Lac: Itis by product of insect coccus lacca)
3) Attempt has also been made to synthesize natural
dye having similar structure.
4) Genetic modification of certain fungi have
produced Anthraquinone dye.
Classification of Natural dyes:
They are classified by various ways.
a) Substantive and adjective natural dyes.
Substantive: The dyes which can dye the fibre
directly without mordant. E.g.Turmeric.
Adjective: These dyes colour the material which is
mordanted with metallic salt e.g. logwood.
b) Monogenetic and polygenetic natural dyes.
Monogenetic: Produce only one colour
irrespective of mordant present in the fibre.
Polygenetic: Produce different colours
according to mordant.
c) Soluble & Insoluble natural dyes.
Soluble: They can be dissolved in water and
applied.
Insoluble: They have no solubilizing group
hence temporary solubilizing group is
introduced e.g. Indigo.
Classification of natural dyes on basis of chemical structure:
A) Anthraquinone. Indigo C) Flavon D) Carotene
Classification of mordants.
1) Metallic Mordants:
Metal salts of Aluminum, Chromium, Iron, Copper and Tin are
used.
2) Tannins/Tannic acid:
It has no natural impurities and used for dyeing light shades.
3) Oil Mordants:
They are mainly used in dyeing of turkey red colour from
madder also known asWood or Rubia. However alum has to be
used as main mordant to dye this colour along with oil mordant.
Limitations of Natural dyes:
1) Low colour yield.
2) Long time of dyeing.
3) High production cost.
4) Poor reproducibility.
5) Some metallic mordant are hazardous.
Application of various Mordants:
1) ALUM
Addition of alkali to alum solution produces basic aluminium
sulphate whichis used as mordant.
The solution of 1Kg of Alum + 0.5 Kg NaOH + 200 liter water can
be used to mordant 10Kg of cotton by direct impregnation. t is not
suitable for silk as it reduces luster.
2) CHROMIUM MORDANT
K2Cr2O7 is used as mordant mostly for wool.Cheap and easy to
apply.
2-4% Dichromate + Tartaric acid is boiled for 90 minutes and used
for dyeing wool.
3) COPPER MORDANT
CuSO4 is fixed with the help of Tannin/Tannic acid.
4) IRON MORDANTS
Mostly used for dyeing blacks.
These mordants are applied on tannic treated cotton
fabric, which formsferrous tannet.
Ferrous tannet is further oxidized in air to form ferric
tannet which acts like amordant.
Application is done by padding two times and followed
by air oxidation.
It is generally used for silk to dye dark shades.
ECOFRIENDLY RESIN FINISHING:
1) Free Formaldehyde: It is uncombined monomeric
formaldehyde that exists in finished solution.
2) Formaldehyde release: It is amount of formaldehyde that
escapes from fabric into atmosphere.
Factors responsible for formaldehyde release:
Cellulose readily picks up formaldehyde from atmosphere.
This will give positive reading during testing.
Sources of gaseous formaldehyde are uncured resins. It is
difficult to cure 100% but try to get maximum efficiency.
The third source is cross linking itself. The finish will
decompose under certain conditions and liberate
formaldehyde.
Formaldehyde Limits:
TYPE OF GARMENT LIMIT IN PPM
Baby wear under 2 years 30
Textile in direct contact with skin 100
Textile not in direct contact with skin 300
Banned Amines in Textile
Colourants are based on two major chemistries: Azo
and Anthraquinone.
Colourants based on azo chemistry contain -N=N-
group or azo group and are known as Azo
Colourants.
Amine
Under certain conditions, azo colourants can
undergo a cleavage of the -N=N- azo bond to
form NH2 group or an Amino group. Such
a compound is called an amine.
 Some amines are carcinogenic in nature i.e. they can
cause cancer and hence there is a ban on usage of dyes
and pigments that can release such amines.
Currently, there are 24 carcinogenic amines which are
banned (as releasable amines from azo colourants
under reductive condition) in textile by global
legislations.
S.No. Substance CAS No.
1. 4-aminodiphenyl 92-67-1
2. Benzidine 92-87-5
3. 4-chloro-o-toluidine 95-69-2
4. 2-naphthylamine 91-59-8
5. o-Aminoazotoluene 97-56-3
6. 2-amino-4-nitrotoluene 99-55-8
7. 4-chloroaniline 106-47-8
8. 2,4-diaminoanisole 615-05-4
9. 4,4-diaminodiphenylmethane 101-77-9
10. 3,3-dichlorobenzidine 91-94-1
11. 3,3-dimethoxybenzidine 119-90-4
12. 3,3-dimethylbenzidine 119-93-7
13. 3,3-dimethyl-4,4diaminodiphenylmethane 838-88-0
14. 4-cresidine 120-71-8
15. 4,4-methylene-bis-(2-chloroaniline) 101-14-4
16. 4,4-oxydianiline 101-80-4
17. 4,4-thiodianiline 139-65-1
18. 2-aminotoluene 95-53-4
19. 2,4-diaminotoluene 95-80-7
20. 2,4,5-trimethylaniline 137-17-7
21. 2-methoxyaniline 90-04-0
22. 4-aminoazobenzene 60-09-3
23. 2,4-Xylidine 60-09-3
24. 2,6-Xylidine 87-62-7
25. 5-Chloro-2-methylaniline 95-79-4
26. p-Phenylenediamine 106-50-3
27. N,N-Dimethylaniline 121-69-7
28. Aniline 62-53-3
 In general, banned amines can come from different
classes of colourants such as Disperse Dyes, Direct
Dyes, Acid Dyes and certain Basic Dyes, Reactive
dyes and Organic pigments.

In garments, the sources of banned amines are all

coloured items such as polyester buttons, beads and
sequins, zipper fabric, sewing threads or yarns, base
fabrics and leather components.
Banned Amines/ Azo Dyes Regulations:
Azo dyes releasing specific amines (under certain
conditions) are restricted in the EU, China, India,
Egypt, South Korea, Taiwan and Vietnam.
The amount of a banned amine that can be detected in
the finished articles is limited to either 30 mg/Kg in
the EU and 20 mg/Kg in China.
Several brands have a Maximum Allowable
Concentration on finished articles as 20 mg/Kg.
Testing of Banned Amines:
Substrate Type Test Method
ISO 24362-1:2014
Textile
GB/T 17592 (China)
Textile (for 4- ISO 24362-3:2014
aminoazobenzene) GB/T 23344 (China)
Natural Leather (All amines ISO 17234-1: 2015
except 4-aminoazobenzene) GB/T 19942 (China)
Leather (for 4-
ISO 17234-2: 2011
aminoazobenzene)
Banned chemicals:
Pentachlorophenol (PCP)- Directive 94/783/EC
Due to its toxicity to the aquatic environment,
pentachlorophenol (PCP) is banned in textile products
worldwide.
Nickel Release - Directive 2004/96/EC
Nickel and its compounds may pierce the skin and the
nickel migration may induce risk to human health.
Therefore, all articles that may have contact with skin
are forbidden to plate nickel, including dress
accessories such as buttons and slide fastener.
Chlorinated solvents
Chlorinated solvents include trichloroethane (TCE), are
commonly used for scouring fabric.
TCE in chlorinated solvents affect the human central-
nervous system, our liver and kidneys and also deplete
the ozone.
Nonylphenol Ethoxylates (NPEO) & Nonylphenol (NP)
Nonylphenol Ethoxylates (NPEOs, NPEs) are commonly
used in industrial laundry detergents, scouring agents
(wool and leather), emulsifiers and dye-dispersing agents
for dyes and prints, impregnating agents, degreasing
agents for leather hides, leather finishing preparations,
degumming agents for silk production, dyes and pigment
preparations, polyester padding and down/feather fillings
 NPEOs degrade into NPs and, when left in the
environment, is very toxic to aquatic organisms.
NPs can accumulate in body tissue, increasing
in concentration up the food chain.
NPs, above certain exposure levels, can impair
human fertility and represents a health risk for
unborn children.
Heavy Metals
A range of heavy metals are used in textile dyes
and pigments, some of the most toxic being
antimony, cadmium, lead, mercury and
chromium VI.
Once absorbed by the human body, heavy metals
tend to accumulate in internal organs such as the
liver or kidney.
The effects on health can be tremendous when
high levels of accumulation are reached.
High levels of lead can seriously affect the
nervous system. Cadmium and lead and
Chromium VI are classified as carcinogens.
 Cadmium has been restricted in Europe for a
long time.
Mercury and lead have been classified as
priority hazardous substances under EU
regulation and their uses have been severely
restricted in textiles.
Chromium VI is still used to produce the vast
majority of the worlds leather.
CHLOROBENZENES
Chlorobenzenes are used as dyeing carriers or leveling
agents for dyeing, printing and coating.
Chlorobenzenes are present in chemical mixtures
mostly used on polyester and polyester blend textiles.
They are less often applied to natural fibres and leather
products.
They can be found in dyeing carriers, dyestuffs,
leveling agents, deodorizers, fumigants, degreasers,
insecticides, herbicides and defoliants.
According to ZDHC, chlorobenzenes are toxic
by inhalation and skin contact.
They tend to accumulate in the body over time
and can affect the liver, the thyroid and the
central nervous system.
Hexachlorobenzene (HCB), the most toxic
chemical of this group is also a hormone
disruptor.
Above certain levels, some chlorobenzenes are
carcinogenic.
Chlorobenzenes are restricted under EU law in
the production of apparel, footwear and
accessories above the dose of 1.0mg/kg.
Dimethyl Fumarate(DMF) Directive 2009/ 251/ EC
As of 1 May 2009, the amount of DMF contained in
product or product components shall not exceed
0.1mg/kg0.1ppm; Desiccant and fungicide
pouches containing DMF are banned in products.
Formaldehyde
Formaldehyde acts as an agent in textile finish resins
which contribute to making an make an easy-care
finish.
It helps to prevent shrinkage and to make a fabric
crease-resistant.
Other qualities of textile finish resins include rendering
fabric perspiration proof, waterproof and mothproof.
Phthalates
Phthalates are a group of chemicals used in
printing and the softening and dyeing of
artificial leather, rubber and PVC.
They are added to plastics to make them soft,
increase flexibility, prevent cracking and
facilitate molding by decreasing its melting
temperature.
Phthalates can be found in flexible plastic parts
of accessories, plastic buttons, plastic sleeves
and print pastes.
 Phthalates are classed as toxic to reproduction in
Europe and can impair fertility.
Commonly found in human tissue, blood and breast
milk, they can rapidly metabolise to their more toxic
monoester form.
Some phthalates, above certain exposure levels, may
contribute to the development of certain cancers.
Phthalates are toxic to aquatic organisms and can lead
to long-term adverse effects in the aquatic
environment.
Organotin compounds
Organotin compounds are often composed of tin.
Theyre used in apparel and footwear manufacturing to
prevent body odour caused by the breakdown of human
body sweat.
Organotins are also used as a heat stabiliser in PVC or as
catalysts in the production of polymeric materials such
as polyester.
anti-fungal agents and biocides or preservatives for
textile and leather.
Silicone-based finishes (for example, fire retardants and
water repellency) may also contain organotins.
Organotin compounds are used on natural and synthetic
fabrics, natural and synthetic leather and PVC materials.
They are common in products such as gloves, socks,
synthetic shoe insoles and sports clothes.
Perfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs)
Perfluorinated chemicals (PFCs) are widely used across
the industry for their non-stick and water-resistant
properties, making textile and leather products
breathable while also water and stain proof.
Mostly used for outdoor apparel and footwear.
PFCs have been known to affect the liver and to alter
levels of growth and reproductive hormones.
Highly resistant to degradation
Short-chain Chlorinated Paraffins (SCCPs)
SCCPs are used as flame retardants and finishing agents
in plastics, rubbers, inks, paints and surface coatings in
clothes, footwear and accessories.
SCCPs can be found in plastic, rubber, adhesives, paints
and lacquers, coatings, plasticisers, fat-liquoring agents
and leather.
SCCPs can cause skin dryness and cracking, and are
carcinogenic. T
hey are highly toxic to aquatic organisms, do not readily
break down in the environment and have a high potential
to accumulate in living organisms.
SCCPs are included in the EU list of Substances of Very
High Concern (SVHC) of REACH.
Their use has been restricted in some applications in the
EU since 2004.
 Eco-parameter and their permissible limits of
chemicals used in finishing
Eco parameter Eco parameter
Presence of the banned < 30 ppm
amines
Presence of Penta < 0.5 ppm
chloro phenols (PCP) (Baby wear: <0.005ppm)
Presence of < 300ppm not in direct contact
formaldehyde with skin,
<75 ppm - direct contact with
skin,
<20ppm baby bear
Carcinogenic dyes Not to be used
Chlorinated benzene & toluene <1.0 ppm
Presence of the Phthalate <0.01 ppm
Organic Tin Compounds < 1.0 ppm
pH value of Aqueous Extract Should be nearly neutral
(4.5-7.5)
Colour fastness As per specifications
Residual pesticides < 1.0 ppm(Baby wear: <
0.5ppm)
Allergenic dyes Not to be used
Presence of heavy metals Consumer specific
BUREAU OF INDIANSTANDARD SIS 10500-1991