Professional Documents
Culture Documents
I. Introduction to Oceans
http://www.classzone.com/books/earth_science/terc/content/visualizations/es19
04/es1904page01.cfm
The deep water that surfaces in upwelling is cold; by looking at
Sea Surface Temperature maps we can identify cool upwelled
water versus hotter surface water.
Upwelled water also contains nutrients (nitrate,
phosphate, silicate) and dissolved gases (oxygen and
carbon dioxide) that are not utilized at depth because of
a lack of sunlight.
~
El Nino
Along Peru’s coast, an El Nino event decreases the coastal
winds. Thus the upwelling from below is slowed.
An El Nino condition results from weakened trade winds in the western Pacific
Ocean near Indonesia, allowing piled-up warm water to flow toward South America.
What is La Niña?
La Niña is characterized by
unusually cold ocean temperatures
in the Equatorial Pacific, compared
to El Niño, which is characterized by
unusually warm ocean temperatures
in the Equatorial Pacific.
VI. Instruments of Investigation
C. Geostationary operational
Environmental Satellites (GOES)
orbit the Earth at 22,000 miles.
They are highly advanced
observation platforms supplying
detailed imagery of the Earth’s
oceans
Instruments of Investigation (cont.)
D. Underwater Laboratories – The
Aquarius Underwater Laboratory is
the only undersea laboratory
dedicated to marine science
operating in the world. Aquarius
provides life support systems that
allow scientists to live and work
underwater, in reasonably
comfortable living quarters, with
sophisticated research capabilities
Instruments of Investigation (cont.)
Close to coast,
water gets more
shallow
Waves are slowed
down
If waves arrive at
an angle, one part
is slower than the
rest
Causes waves to
bend = wave
refraction
Waves arriving at bays are slow
(deposition)
At headlands, faster (erosion)
A sequence of
features is
produced as
headlands are
degraded
Sea cliffs
Waves erode
base -
undercutting
• Headlands
may be eroded
back leaving a
remnant (stack)
Longshore drift
Waves arrive at a
coast at an angle
(swash)
Backwash returns
at 90 degrees
Sand is moved along the beach = longshore
drift or longshore current
Coastal deposition
Result of
longshore
drift and a lot
of sediment
= produces
extensions of
deposit from
the shoreline
spit = curved extension
May grow
across a bay
(baymouth
bar)
May link an
island to the
main land
(tombolo)
Types of Coastline
Pocket beaches
Emergent coast
Uplifted land surface
Coastal landforms are found
above present sea level
a wave-cut
platform when
elevated -
uplifted marine
terrace
Barrier Island Coasts