OPTIMIZATION

OF FABRIC
HANDLE FOR
APPAREL END
USE
BY MAHESH PRATAP UNDER THE
GUIDENCE OF DR. K.V.P.SINGH
Roll no. 09210104
DR. B R AMBEDKAR NIT JALANDHAR
CONTENT
 INTRODUCTION
 OBJECTIVE OF WORK
 LITERATURE REVIEW
 PLAN OF WORK
 REFERENCES
INTRODUCTION
 The subjective assessment of the handle of cloth is one of the
most important factors influencing the consumer's
appreciation.
 Vary from person to person
 As per the suitability of garment fabric involves various factor
 To measure the handle of a fabric there are two major
methods used which are:
 Kawabata evaluation system (KESF)
 Fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST)
 KAWABATA EVALUATION SYSTEM (KESF)

 In KESF primary hands value are consider:-

• stiffness
• smoothness
• fullness and softness
• crispness
• anti-drape stiffness
• scrooping feeling
• flexibility with soft feeling
• soft touch
 FABRIC ASSURANCE BY SIMPLE TESTING
(FAST)

 FAST- used to measure the fabric handle properties.

This system is specifically designed for use by tailor
and worsted finisher to highlight problems that may
be encountered by in making a fabric to garment.
 The Fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST)
system comprises four test methods:
 FAST 1: COMPRESSION METER
 FAST 2: BENDING METER
 FAST 3: EXTENTION METER
 FAST 4: DIMENTIONAL STABILITY TEST
WHY FAST ?
 Simple
 It is robust
 Cheaper (five time) and
 Mostly adopted for industrial application
FAST CONTROL CHART
 BENDING RIGIDITY
 LOW VALUE OF BENDING RIGIDITY

SEAM PUCKER & PROBLEM IN CUTTING

 Bending Rigidity is depends on bending length & mass
per area.
 HIGH VALUE OF BENDING RIGIDITY

SEAM PUCKERING PROBLEM SOLVED BUT

PROBLEM IN MOULDING PRON TO BE OCCUR
 EXTENSIBILITY

LOW EXTENSIBILITY HIGH EXTENSIBILITY

 PROBLEM IN  PROBLEM IN
MOULDING , GIVES LAYING UP
SEAM PUCKER  PROBLEM
MATCHING OF
CHECCKS AND
PATTERN
 FORMABILITY

Formability of
 Formability measures the degree of
the fabric compression in the fabric plane
depends on sustainable by it before buckling
longitudinal occurs.
compressibilit  LOW VALUE OF FORMABILITY
y (extension
modulus ) and
bending Indication of pucker during collar & cuff
rigidity. making
 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

RELAXATION SHRINKAGE HYGRAL EXPANSION

 (L1-L3)*100/L1  (L2-L3)*100/L3
 HIGH VALUE  HIGH VALUE

SEAM PUCKER AT LOSS OF

FINAL STAGE APPEARANCE
 Should be below 1%
OBJECTIVE OF WORK
 To interrelate all the properties of fabric
 To convert physiological control system in system
engineering control system .
 To optimized all the fabric handle properties in good zone to
get a unique value as per engineering control system by
developing a mathematical model.
LITERATURE
REVIEW
 WHAT IS ANN ???
• The human brain is made up of vast network of computing elements,
called neurons, coupled with sensory receptors (affectors) and
effectors. A neuron is a special cell that conducts an electrical
signal. Neurons interact through contacts called synapses.

• An artificial neural network is one of the new intelligence

technologies for data analysis. It imitates the behavior of biological
neural networks to learn a subject from the data provided to it.
• There are mostly two type of control system which are used now a
days to optimized the different process. The two systems are:-
o Physiological control system (handle properties)
o Engineering control system
 P.C.S. V/S E.C.S.
PHYSIOLOGICAL CONTROL ENGINEERING CONTROL
SYSTEM SYSTEM

 Physiological control  to accomplish a defined

systems, in general, task, and frequently
are adaptive.
 characteristics of its
 usually consists of various components are
components that are generally known
unknown and difficult
to analyze.  can be linear or
 nonlinear nonlinear
PLAN OF WORK
 Viscose knitted fabric sample with MATERIAL

specifications
 Number of sample
 Preparation of fabric finger print
 Optimizing the result which are tested

 Testing instrument – FAST (fabric INSTRUME

assurance by simple testing) NT
 REFERENCES
 EFFECTS OF SOFTENERS ON MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON FABRIC GONG R.H. AND
BHATIA.A, RJTA VOL. 13 NO. 4 2009
 THE ASSESSMENT OF FABRIC HANDLE PART I: STIFFNESS AND LIVELINESS, VIVIENNE H.
DAWES AND J. D. OWEN, VOL.62 NO. 5 MAY, 1971,PP-233-244
 A CSIRO INTER-LABORATORY TRIAL OF THE KES-F FOR MEASURING FABRIC PROPERTIES
LY N G AND DENBY E F
 DIVISION OF TEXTILE PHYSICS, C.S.I.R.O., RYDE, SYDNEY, NEW SOUTH WALES, AUSTRALIA,
J, TEXT. INAT., 2988, NO, 2, PP-198-219
 PHYSILOGICAL CONTROL SYSTEMS, ANALYSIS, SIMULATION, AND ESTIMATION, MICHAEL
C K KHOO, PHI, IEEE PRESS, PP. 1-24.
 NEURAL NETWORK FUNDAMENTAL, WITH GRAPHS, ALGORITHMS, AND APPLICATION,
BOSE N K, LIANG, TATA McGAW-HILL EDITION, PP. 1-8
 TOTAL WEAR COMFORT INDEX AS AN OBJECTIVE PARAMETER FOR CHARACTERIZATION
OF OVERALL WEARABILITY OF COTTON FABRICS, SHEELA RAJ AND SREENIVASAN S,
JOURNAL OF ENGINEERED FIBERS AND FABRICS 2Z VOLUME 4, ISSUE 4 2009 FIBER AND
TEXTILE RESEARCH IN INDIA.
 THE MECHANICAL PROPERTIES AND FABRIC HANDLE OF POLYESTER-FIBRE 'SHINGOSEN'
FABRICS, MATSUDAIRA M, J. TEXT. INST..1994, 85 NO. PP.158-172
 PHYSICAL TESTING OF TEXTILE, SALVILLE,WOODHEAD PUBLICATION LIMITED, PP-
THANKYOU