CE 2100

Details of Construction I

Plastering, Pointing
&
Interior Finishing
 Plastering
Plastering is the process of covering rough walls
and uneven surfaces in the construction of houses and
other structures with a plastic material, called plaster,
which is a mixture of lime or cement concrete and
sand along with the required quantity of water.

Certain additives are sometimes added to improve

its adhesiveness, durability and lustered.

When cement is used as the binding material, the

plaster is termed as cement plaster and when lime is
used as the binding material. It is called lime plaster.
 Requirements of Good Plaster
• It should adhere to the background and should
remain adhered during all climatic changes.
• It should be cheap as well as economical.
• It should be hard and durable.
• It should be possible to apply it during all weather
conditions.
• It should effectively check the entry or penetration of
moisture from the surfaces.
• The plaster must have adequate workability so that
application is done as desired
 Plastering Contd…
Sand normally forms the greatest proportion of
the constituents of a plaster. Sand controls the
shrinkage, porosity, strength and adhesive properties
of plaster.
Fine sand is often recommended for plastering
and it should be so graded that it does not pass by
more then 5% through a sieve of 100 mesh (B.S.
sieve).
Sand used should be clean, sharp and free from
deleterious matter. Water used should be clean and fit
for drinking purposes. Depending upon the availability
of the materials, the choice of plaster for any particular
location, is governed by the rainfall, weather
Conditions and the finish desired.
 Objective of Plastering
• To provide an even, smooth, regular, clean and
durable finished surface, improved appearance
• To protect surface from the effects of natural
agencies
• To conceal the defective workmanship
• To provide satisfactory base for painting, white
washing etc.,
• Internal plastering – to protect the surfaces against
dust and vermin nuisance
Classification of Plaster

• Cement plaster
• Lime plaster
• Mud plaster
• Plaster on lath
• Stucco plaster
• Water proof plaster
 Cement Plaster
Cement plaster forms an ideal coating for external
renderings. It specially suited for damp conditions
(bathrooms, etc.) where non absorbent wall surface is
essential. Cement plaster is usually applied in one
coat.
The thickness of coat can be 12 mm, 15 mm or 20
mm depending upon the site conditions and type of
building. Sometimes, when the thickness of plaster is
more than 15 mm. or when it is desired to have finer
finish, plaster is applied in two coats.
In case of plastering
with one coat, cement
plaster is applied on
the prepared surface
between the screed
with mason's trowel.
The surface is levelled
by means of wooden
float and straight
edges and finally
polished with a trowel.
Fig: Trowel
Fig.: Wooden float
 Cement Plaster
In case plastering is required to be done in two
coats, the first coat is applied as described above with
the only difference that the plastered surface is not
polished. The surface of the first coat when set (not dry)
is roughened with a scratching tool to form a key for the
2nd or finishing coat. The finishing coat is then applied
over the first coat surface (made rough and damp),
within 48 hours. This coat is we toweled and the
surface finished smooth. The plaster should be kept wet
(cured) for at least 7 days.
 Lime Plaster
Lime used in plastering may be fat lime or
hydraulic lime. Fat limes make best plaster as they
yield good putty after slaking.
Hydraulic lime on the other hand yields harder
and stronger plaster, but it may contain some
unslaked particles which may slake slowly (may be in
8 to 12 months) on' absorbing moisture from
atmosphere and damage the plastering by forming
blisters. As a precaution the hydraulic lime, if used,
should be ground dry with sand; left for about 2 or 3
weeks and then reground before Use.
 Application of Lime Plaster
It is usual to provide 13 mm. and 16 mm, thick
plaster on plain side and rough side of one brick thick
walls respectively.
Plaster may be applied in one, two or three coats
on the prepared wall between the screed with the help of
trowel.
In the one coat treatment mortar is applied in a
uniform surface slightly more than the specified
thickness. During the process of finishing, a solution of
lime putty is applied on the surface to make the surface
smooth and workable. The finished surface is then
cured for at least seven days.
 Application of Lime Plaster
In case it is desired to apply plaster in more than
one coat, the first coat, also known as rough coat, is
applied on the surface in a layer of 10 mm in
thickness. In the first coat the mortar is dashed against
the surface to serve as a key to hold the next coats.
Second coat is then applied over the first coat
after the latter has set and roughened. Mortar for
second coat is well pressed and rubbed wit wooden
straight edge to obtain the desired surface. The thickness
of layer of mortar in 2nd coat varies between 6 to 10
mm.
 Mud Plaster
This type of plastering is commonly seen in
kuccha construction in villages and in other structures
of temporary character. This is the cheapest form of
plastering. Mud to be used for plastering should be
made from earth free from grass, gravels, stone etc. All
the clods in the earth should be broken and reduced to a
fine powder.
The earth is then mixed with plenty of water in a pit, adding,
chopped straw, hay or hemp at the rate of 33 kg/cubic metre of earth.
This mixture of earth and straw, well flooded with water, is kept for
least 6 days. During this period, the mixture is worked up at intervals
with foot or phawras so as to convert it ill to a homogeneous mass.
 Preparation of Surface for Plastering
The durability of plaster depends to a great extent
upon its adhesion with the background. The preparation
of surface for plastering is therefore of prime
importance.
All the projections which extend by more than 13
mm from the general surface of the masonry wall face are
knocked off to obtain a uniform surface and this also helps
to reduce consumption of plaster.
In order to obtain a good key for the plaster with the
wall surface, all the joints in the masonry are raked out for
a depth of at least 13 mm.
Dust and loose mortar is brushed out of the raked
joints. The surface is rendered free from oily greasy
spots.
 Special Types of Finishing

The plastered surfaces may be finished in a

variety of forms. The types of finishing
treatments, usually adopted for external surfaces,
a briefly given below:
(a) Smooth cast
(b) Rough cast
(c) Pebble dash
(d) Scrapped finish
(e) Textured finish
 Special Materials used in Plastering
1. Plaster of Paris
It is also known calcium sulphate plaster and is obtained
by heating Gypsum. Gypsum occurs in the form of natural rock
which is usually composed of one part of calcium sulphate and
two parts of chemically combined water of crystallization.
When the water of crystallization is driven off from
gypsum stone through calcinations or heat treatment, the
product obtained is called the plaster of Paris. When water is
added to this powdery product, it forms a plastic mass, which
sets rapidly. Plaster of Paris adheres well to gypsum, wood,
metal lath, masonry or other plastering surfaces.
The setting time of the plaster of Paris can be controlled by
the addition of certain salts. It is mostly used in combination with
ordinary lime for making good small defects in plastered surfaces.
Since gypsum is slightly soluble in water, plaster of Paris is used
for external works.
Plaster of Paris
 Special Materials used in Plastering
2. Keene's Cement
This is hardest and densest form of gypsum
plaster. It is obtained by calcining selected form of
gypsum. It is white in colour and takes a high
glass like polish. It is used for high decorative
plastering work and ornamental work. It is used
alone for extra hard finish or it is mixed with lime
putty for medium hard finish.
3. Barium Plaster
This is essentially made from barium
sulphate and is applied in the form of final coat
to serve as a protection around X-ray rooms.
 Special Materials used in Plastering

4. Acoustical plaster
This is gypsum mixture, which is employed as
a final coat to serve the purpose of a sound-
repellent finish. The minute passages in the form of
tiny openings in the plaster coat, abs sound. The
plaster is usually applied in two coats; each 6 mm.
in thickness .The surface must be finished uniformly
in a manner that promotes porosity. Wooden float is
preferred to a steel trowel in finishing.
 Defects in Plaster Work
The following defects may occur in plaster work:
1. Cracking
This consists in formation of cracks in plaster which
may be on account of the following:
(i) Old surface not being properly prepared.
(ii) Movements in the backing either on account of
thermal expansion or due to shrinkage caused by the
drying of the backing material. To avoid this backing
surface should be allowed to dry before applying the
plaster.
(iii) Movement in the plaster itself on account of the
expansion (in case of gypsum plaster) or shrinkage of
the plaster coat (in case of lime-sand plaster) during
drying.
(iv) Excessive shrinkage of plaster due to the application
 Defects in Plaster Work
2. Blowing or blistering of plaster
This consists in formation of small patches of
plaster swelling out beyond the plastered surface and
are chiefly due to improper slaking of lime particles
in the plaster. After the application of plaster, the
unslaked particles in the lime start slaking and thus
the defect takes place. Properly slaked lime should
therefore, be used to prevent blistering.
 Defects in Plaster Work
3. Falling out of plaster
This defect may arise due to the following reasons:
(i) The adhesion of the plaster to the background may
not be perfect.
(ii) The suction of the backing material may not be
uniform. At places where the backing material absorbs
excessive amount of water, the plaster loses its strength
as well as the mechanical bond between the two
surfaces.
(iii) Excessive thermal changes in plaster or backing.
(iv) In-adequate curing of the plaster.
 Defects in Plaster Work
4. Efflorescence
If soluble salts are present in bricks or the
mortar they absorb moisture from atmosphere and go
into solution which appears on the surface in the form of
whitish substance as the moisture dries out and the salts
crystallize. The surface gets disfigured and concentrated
stains present an ugly appearance. Efflorescence may
occur on brick work or on the surface of plaster.
Efflorescence on the surface is unlikely to cause
any real damage to the brick unless the quantity of soluble
salts present is abnormally takes place within the brick; it
can result in the disintegration of material and cause
severe flaking of the plastered surface.
Prevention
Efflorescence on surface can be removed to some
extent brushing and washing the surface repeatedly. In
case of brick work, salts can be removed, by applying
solution or zinc sulphate and water and then
brushing off the surface when dry.
In another method a solution consisting of one
part of hydrochloric or sulphuric acid diluted with 5
parts of water is applied on surface with the scrubbing
brush. The surface is then thoroughly washed and
rendered clean and dry.
 Pointing
Pointing is the visible edge of the mortar-joint. In
exposed brick or stone masonry, mortar joints are consider
to be weakest spots for giving access to rain water or
dampness. Pointing consists in raking out joints in brick
work or in stone masonry to depth of about 13 mm. and
filling the same with mortar of slightly richer mix
This treatment not only protects the joint from the
adverse effect atmosphere but also magnifies the
appearance of the surface exhibiting the pattern of the
joints, their thickness, colours and texture; prominently.
 Mortar
Pointing may be done by using lime or cement
mortar. The mortar for lime pointing is made by
taking equal part of fat lime fine sand and then
grinding the mixture thoroughly, in a mortar .The
mortar for cement pointing is made by mixing cement
and sand proportion of 1:2 or 1:3.
 Types of Pointing

The various types of pointing commonly used

are described below.
The choice of the particular type depends upon
• Type of masonry
• Nature of the structure and
• Nature of the finish desired.
 Types of Pointing
• Flush pointing
• Cut or weathered or struck pointing
• V-grooved pointing
• Keyed or grooved pointing
• Tuck pointing
• Beaded pointing
Flush pointing Keyed or grooved pointing

Cut or weathered or struck

pointing
(4) Keyed or grooved
pointing
 Types of Pointing
(1) Flush pointing
In this type of pointing, the mortar is pressed
into the raked joints and finished off flush with the
edges of the bricks or stones, so as to give a smooth
appearance. The edges are then neatly trimmed with a
trowel and straight edge. This is the simplest type of
pointing and is extensively used in brick work and
stone masonry face work.
(2) Cut or weathered or struck pointing
In this type of pointing, the mortar is first
pressed into the raked joints. While the mortar is
still-green, the top of the horizontal joints is neatly
pressed back by 3 to 6 mm. with the pointing tool.
Thus the joint is finished sloping from top of the joint
 Types of Pointing
(3) V-grooved pointing
This type of pointing is made similar to keyed or
grooved pointing by suitably shaping the end of the
steel
(4) Keyed or grooved pointing
In this type of pointing mortar is pressed into the
raked joints and finished off flush with face of the
wall. While the pressed mortar is still green, a groove
is formed by running the bent end of a small steel
rod (6 mm diameter) straight along the center line of
the joints. The vertical joints are also finished in the
same manner.
 Types of Pointing
(5) Tuck pointing
In this type of pointing, the mortar is pressed in
the raked joints and there after it is finished flush
with face of the wall. While the pressed mortar is still
green, the top bottom edges of the joints are cut
parallel so as to have a uniformly raised band
about 6 mm high and 10 mm in width.
(6) Beaded pointing
In this type of pointing, the mortar is pre in the
raked joints and finished off flush with the face of the
wall. While the pressed mortar is still green, a steel
rod having its end suitably shaped is run straight
along the centre line of the joints to form the beading.
 White/Colour Washing
Pre Preparation of White-wash
White-wash is made from pure fat lime (white
stone lime) or shell lime. The unslaked lime is
dissolved in a tub with sufficient quantities of water,
and it is thoroughly stirred with a wooden pole, until
it attains the consistency of thin cream.
As a rough guide about 5 litres of water should
be added to each kg of lime for making the cream.
This mixture is allowed to stand in the tub for a period
of about 24 hours and strained through a clean coarse
cloth. Clean gum dissolved in hot water is then added
in the proportion of 4 kg of gum per cu. m. of cream.
To prevent glare and to obtain pleasing effect,
Indigo (Neel) proportion of 3 kg. of Indigo per cu. m.
of thin cream is also added. order that the coat of white-
wash may stick well to the surface, alum or common
 White/Colour Washing
Preparation of Surface
Before applying white wash on new walls,
the wall surface is thoroughly cleaned, brushed
and rendered free from mortar droppings and
other foreign-matter. If the surface to be coated is
sufficiently smooth, it should be rubbed with
sand paper to ensure proper adhesion of white-
wash.
In case of re-white washing an old surface,
all loose pieces and scales should be scrapped off.
When heavy scaling has taken place entire surface
should be scrapped by means of steel wire brushes,
steel scrapers.
 White/Colour Washing
Application of White-wash
White-wash may be applied in specified number
of coats until the surface presents a smooth and uniform
finish. Three coats are considered necessary for new
work and one or two coats for old work.
Usually moonj brushes arc used for white-
washing. Each coat consists of a stroke of the brush
applied from the top downwards, another stroke
applied from the bottom upwards over the first stroke,
and similarly one stroke is applied horizontally from
the right and another from the left. Each coat should be
allowed to dry before next one is applied. The finished
dry surface should not show any signs of cracking or
 Colour Washing
Colour wash is prepared by adding mineral colours
(which are not affected by lime) of desired shade to the
prepared white-wash. The colour wash is applied in the
same manner as white-wash. The mixture is kept
constantly stirred with a bamboo stick while it is being
used.
Only colour wash, sufficient for the day's work,
should be prepared at a time. Prior to the application of
colour-wash on new surfaces, a coat of white-wash is
applied which acts as a priming coat.
In case of old prepared surface, a coat of colour wash
is applied over the patched and repair work before start
of colour washing. Two or more coats of colour wash are
then applied on the entire surface till it presents a uniform
tint of shade. The surface should not appear powdery and
 Distempers
Distempers may be defined as water paints consisting of
whiting (powdered chalk), some colouring pigment (if desired)
and glue size mixed in water. Distemper may give either a
washable or non-washable surface according to the medium used.
They are cheaper than paints and varnishes and are easier to
work.
They act as sealers over porous surfaces and are generally
used over plastered. surfaces to which a priming coat of whiting
has been applied Distempers for exterior use on cement concrete,
stucco and brick surfaces are provided with weather resistant
ingredient during the process of manufacturing.
They are more durable and present smoother and
distinctive appearance than an ordinary colour/white wash. The
cost of distemper compares favorably with that of white-wash in
the long run and hence its application should be given preference.
It should only be used in dry climates as in wet conditions, it
 Do I need to remove old plaster before
plastering?

Plastering Over Old Plasterwork. If you want your

plasterer to apply a fresh skim coat to old plaster
walls, you will need to prepare your walls. Any
damaged and crumbling old plaster will need to come
off the walls, before the brickwork beneath is cleaned
off.
 Can You Plaster Over Paint?
Your first step is to assess your wall. If the paint on your
wall is in good condition, then a professional will likely
be able to start the plastering process straight away. Paint
that is in ‘good condition’ won’t have damages or cracks
and won’t be peeling either. It is also best if the walls
themselves are clean of dirt, and dust.
If however, the paint is not in good condition or the wall
has recently been painted it is best to avoid plastering
over the paint directly. This is because walls which have
paint that is no longer in good condition will either need
repairs or a professional may need to strip the paint first.
 What’s the Difference Between
Plastering and Skimming?
They are both used to decorate structures and increase
the durability of a wall, but skimming is done to
update an old building whereas plastering is done to a
new one. Another difference between
skim and plaster is that plaster surface areas are
constantly rough whereas a skimmed surface area is
smooth.
 What is the difference between
plastering and rendering?

The main difference in the two practices is

that plastering refers to coating the interior walls,
whilst rendering is the coating of exterior walls.
Plaster and render are both made from the same
building materials including, cement, sand, water and
lime gypsum.