Assignment(SDSO)- 1

BY:-santosh
Contents

1. Significant Wave Height(Hs)

2. Zero Crossing Wave Period(Tz)
3. PM Spectrum
4. Jonswap Spectra
5. Airy’s Wave Theory
6. Stokes 5th order Wave calculation
Significan
t Wave
Height is
the
average of
top 1/3rd
waves
Significant wave height represented as H  or H
s sig or H1/3.

Important level when considering the statistical

distribution of ocean waves.
PROCEDURE TO FIND OUT H1/3
1. select a random wave profile .
2.arrange in descending order.
3. choose top 1/3rd & find Avg.
 3.Also called the
Mean Spectral
Period. 

Zero Crossing Wave Period (Tz, Tav)

PM spectrum:
Defines the Pierson Moskowitz spectra in the wave-frequency domain.

The Pierson-Moskowitz (PM) spectra is an empirical

relationship that defines the distribution of energy
with frequency within the ocean.
PM spectrum is one of the simplest descriptions for
the energy distribution
 PM Spectrum:

Defines the Pierson Moskowitz spectra in the wave-

frequency domain.
The equation is:

Where

is the wind speed at 19.5m above the sea surface.

Parameters
w=wave-frequency (2 π/s)
wp=the peak wave frequency (2 π/s)
alpha=The intensity of the Spectra. Default value (0.0081)
beta=A shape factor. Default value = 1.25
The JONSWAP spectra in the wave-frequency domain:

The JONSWAP (Joint North Sea Wave Project) spectra is an empirical

relationship that defines distribution of energy with frequency within
the ocean.
The underlying equation is:

Where:
, &
PARAMETER:
 W=wave-frequency (2 π/s)
 Wp=the peak wave frequency (2 π/s)
 Alpha=The intensity of the Spectra. Default value = 0.0081
 Gamma=Peak enhancement factor. Default value = 3.3
 Beta=A shape factor (Rarely changed). Default value = 1.25
Airy’s wave theory :
 It is a linear theory for the propagation of waves on the
surface of a potential flow & above a horizontal bottom
The free surface elevation η(x,t) of one wave
component issinusoidal:
As a function of horizontal position x and time t:
Where:
a is the wave amplitude in metre,
cos is the cosine function,
k is the angular wavenumber in radian per metre,
related to the wavelength λ as

ω is the angular frequency in radian per second:

Stoke’s 5th order wave calculation:
 The wavelength L and the Stokes lamda parameter λ are calculated by
solving
λ = π H / ( L ( ( B35 + B55 ) λ  4 + B33 λ 2 + 1 ) )
L = Lo tanh( 2 π d / L )( C2 λ  4 + C1 λ 2 + 1 )
Where
λ = Stokes lamda Coefficient
L = Ocean Wave Length
Lo = Deep Water Wave Length = ( 9.80665 T  2 ) / ( 2 π )
B33, B35, B55, C1 and C2 are coefficients dependant on
L
Stokes fifth order wave calculators.
Thank