EMBROIDERIES OF MANIPUR

Introduction to Manipur
Manipur , the land of gems

was known as subarna bhu or the land of gold in ancient indian scriptures. Manipuris refer this land sometime as Meithi Laipak or the land of Meitheis while sometime as kangleipak or the Royal land. Most of the languages are of Tibeto-Burman origin.

 Non tribals are the major group settled here which are divided as three

groups : 1) The Metheis 2) The Lois 3) The Bishnupuriyas Tribal groups have half the population of non tribal groups and are divided in three sub-categories: 1) The Naga groups 2) The old-kuki group 3)The new-kuki group

Some facts of Manipur:

Manipur is the only state where Tarang or Charkha are still

being sold in the market. Entire textile operation from begin to end is basically the affair of women and men have no entry. Unless permitted by the Raja, various articles of dress and ornament can not be worn and permissions to wear any of these articles is much coveted. Tribal people work with bamboo needle.

Embroideries of Manipur
The inhabitants of Manipur are expert in weaving varieties

of beautiful and intricate weaves and are famous for unique style of design. Embroideries are done mostly in traditional wear .Each tribal group specialises in its own particular style of design. The motifs for the embroidery are take from nature , flowers, birds, aimals,geometrical forms and circles and are effectively used with charming multi coloured combinations.

Akoybi Mayek or Khoi Mayek

Its one of the oldest motif used as a sign

of good omen protecting women from misfortune and tragedy. The design is composed of a circle containing a rectangular or diamond shaped structure which is said to be a lotus. During the reign of maharaja Tanglon Keiphaba , the hook like figures were added to the rectangle which denote the bee or fishing hook. It also represents foetus, associating the concept of the design with the process of birth and creation . The four petals like structures on the side of the hook is explained as the tender part of the lotus. Satin stitch is used in embroidery.

 Encircled within the

rectangle , at the centre is a circular shape representing the peacock or wahong.A bow shaped design is depicted by the white area between the circular motifs. Color scheme: reddish brown , black, white and blue colors are used.

Hija Mayek
Its a overall pattern embroidered in white and black to emphasise the running lines and circular movements. This design is associated with costumes of widows and older people.Its used with restrictions. The embroidery is done with tiny satin stitches which is very close to each other.

Now multifarious color schemes are produced with synthetic dyes.

 Saijounba: its an embroidery used on the coats of

ministers. Phiranamba:These are embroidered flags on turbans. Leirong Design: Its the mother of all floral motifs and patterns of Manipur. The inspiration is taken from flowers like chingthrao chinghao. This motif is found in dupattas ,bed cover and table cloths.
Tindogbi: Its a simple pattern and the motifs appear

like a silk larva sitting on a castor leaf and feeding it.Its inspired by the silk worm rearing.

Motifs used in royal clothes

Pumthit phanek: its a dress for princess who had borne a son and its embroidered with dragon and fish motif. Kanap phanek:hook like motif is used on white strip. Flower motifs are found in Lai phee kup.

Saphi Lamphi or Samilamni: This is a shawl for bravest warrior.Today its worn by chief heads only.

various motifs used are:

Elephant and Horse: symbols of war Sun and moon: These are worshipped as ancestrol Gods. peacock fish horns of the buffalo

Applique work of Manipur

Elegant motifs of red colour

were appliqued on the yellow borders of the dance costume. Mirrors and sequences are stitched with rich red silk floss. Delicate applique of white on white is done on turbans.

Zalakdozi
Zalakdozi is the hook embroidery ,named after a hook

which resembled a crochet. John Irwin states that, Zalakdozi was probably introduced to kashmir by Damascus craftsmen during Sultan Zain-ul-Abidins rule. Various articles are prepared by hook embroidery and one of them is Namada, a felt carpet.

 Namada: its an important textile of kashmir which is

in white or in various colors.Its richly embroidered with chain stitch.chain stitch is supplemented with satin and whip stitches.The carpet designs selected for Namada ranged from Persian to French.

Bibliography:
Traditional embroideries of India

by: Naik SD Woven textiles of India Craft Documentation on Manipur