BY SARMILA.

S 20080516

The purpose of grading is to proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern, while maintaining shape, fit, balance. Pattern companies and apparel manufacturers take a middle-sized pattern and grade it up for larger sizes and grade it down for smaller sizes.

There are three basic methods of grading cut and spread pattern shifting computer grading

This is the easiest method and it is the basis of the other two methods It is to cut the pattern and spread the pieces by a specific amount to grade up, or overlap them to grade down. No special training or tools are requiredjust scissors, a pencil, tape, and a ruler.

It is the process of increasing the overall dimensions of a pattern by moving it a measured distance up and down and left and right and redrawing the outline, to produce the same results as the cut-and-spread method.

In computer grading, the pattern draft is turned over to computer-aided design. The technician digitizes the basic pattern pieces. Then all the separate pattern pieces are blocked, which means they are created with all the information and additions (seam allowances, fold lines, dart lines, etc.) needed to make them usable pattern pieces.

There are two types of overall grades: an even grade and an uneven grade. An even grade means that the bust, waist, and hip measurements change the same amount from one size to another. For example, if a pattern measures 35-27-37 and the body measures 37-29-39, then the difference between each measurement is 2 inch. and the overall grade is an even 2 inch. Sizes of commercial patterns and apparel always follow an even grade.

If the grade is uneven, there are three ways to use grading to alter the pattern: Use an even grade equal to the value of the largest measurement difference. For sizing down, then use an even grade equal to the value of the smallest difference. This will get the pattern close to the general size needed.

To address fit problems for pear- or triangleshaped women. Separate the pattern at the waist, and grade the top and bottom individually. Then rejoin the pattern, and blend the new lines at the waistline.

When a body has changed in width or height, but not both. For example, a person who's gained weight, grade for circumference and forget about grading for length. Or for a person who's grown 6 inch taller , ignore circumference and only grade for length.