1esLlng of LexLlles for fashlon and

apparels and garmenLs appllcaLlon

8y
CurumurLhy 88
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Landard aLmosphere for LesLlng
W S1ANDAkD A1MCSnLkL ICk 1LS1ING
1he aLmosphere ln whlch physlcal LesLs on LexLlle
maLerlals are performed
W L has a relaLlve humldlLy of 63 + 2 per cenL and a
LemperaLure of 20 + 2 C
W n Lroplcal and subLroplcal counLrles an
alLernaLlve sLandard aLmosphere for LesLlng wlLh
a relaLlve humldlLy of 63 + 2 per cenL and a
LemperaLure of 27 + 2 C
may be used
lber LesLlng
-flbre lengLh
-flneness
-sLrengLh
-maLurlLy
-8lgldlLy
-flbre frlcLlon
-sLrucLural feaLures
flbre lengLh
Comb sorLer
flneness
lber sLrengLh
lber maLurlLy
flbre frlcLlon
sLrucLural feaLures
cannlng elecLron mlcroscope
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arn properLles
Warn counL
Warn LwlsL
Warn sLrengLh and evenness
Warn halrlness
arn LwlsL
arn sLrengLh and evenness
arn halrlness
arn counL Llnear uenslLy
W 1he Lhlckness or dlameLer of a yarn ls one of
lLs mosL fundamenLal properLles
W Powever lL ls noL posslble Lo measure Lhe
dlameLer of a yarn ln any meanlngful way
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Llnear uenslLy
W 1hls ls because Lhe dlameLer of a yarn
changes qulLe markedly as lL ls compressed
W 8ecause of Lhese problems a sysLem of
denoLlng Lhe flneness of a yarn by welghlng a
known lengLh of lL has evolved
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Llnear uenslLy
W 1hls quanLlLy ls known as Lhe llnear denslLy
and lL can be measured wlLh a hlgh degree of
accuracy lf a sufflclenL lengLh of yarn ls used
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CounL CounL
ulrecL ulrecL
1ex 1ex
uenler uenler
ndlrecL ndlrecL
Lngllsh Lngllsh
WorsLed WorsLed
CounL ueLermlnaLlon
W rrespecLlve of Lhe sysLem of yarn numberlng
employed Lwo baslc requlremenLs for Lhe
deLermlnaLlon of yarn number are
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CounL ueLermlnaLlon
An accuraLe value for Lhe sample lengLh
An accuraLe value for lLs
welghL
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CounL ueLermlnaLlon
W 1he meLhods deLermlnaLlon of yarn counL
depend Lo a large exLenL on Lhe form ln whlch
Lhe yarn ls avallable for LesLlng
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CounL ueLermlnaLlon
W or example
when yarn ls ln form of rlng bobbln a long sample
lengLh ls posslble
when yarn ls ln form of fabrlc only a number of
shorL lengLhs are avallable
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CounL
ueLermlnaLlon
CounL
ueLermlnaLlon
arn orm arn orm
LengLh
MeasuremenL
LengLh
MeasuremenL
abrlc orm abrlc orm
WelghL
MeasuremenL
WelghL
MeasuremenL
WelghL MeasuremenL
W 8alances
1he analyLlcal balances and any oLher balances
used ln deLermlnaLlon of counL musL be accuraLe
and callbraLed Llme Lo Llme ln order Lo geL Lhe
exacL readlngs
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WelghL MeasuremenL
W MolsLure
MolsLure conLaln can affecL Lhe resulLs largely so
lL ls very lmporLanL Lo do 24 hrs condlLlonlng of
Lhe sample ln sLandard aLmospherlc condlLlon
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8eesley 8alance
W A number of speclal yarn balances are
avallable whlch are deslgned Lo furnlsh Lhe a
qulck esLlmaLe of Lhe counL especlally when
only small samples are aL hand
W Cne of such balance ls 8LLLL 8alance
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8eesley 8alance
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8eesley 8alance
W 1he 8eesley 8alance conslsLs of a llghLwelghL
beam plvoLed on [ewel bearlngs wlLh a hook
aL one end and a polnLer aL Lhe oLher
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8eesley 8alance
W 1he beam ls lnlLlally levelled Lo brlng Lhe
polnLer agalnsL a daLum llne
W A sLandard welghL ls suspended ln a noLch on
Lhe beam arm on Lhe polnLer slde
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8eesley 8alance
W A LemplaLe ls used Lo cuL shorL lengLhs of
yarn Lhe lengLh dependlng upon Lhe counL
sysLem requlred
W 1hese lengLhs are placed on Lhe hook unLll
Lhe polnLer comes agalnsL Lhe daLum llne
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8eesley 8alance
W 1he number of shorL lengLhs requlred Lo
balance Lhe beam glves Lhe counL of Lhe yarn
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8eesley 8alance
W A LemplaLe ls provlded Lo glve lengLhs of yarn
ln MeLrlc CoLLon Llnen Wool keln and
worsLed counLs
W 1he balance ls housed ln a sheeL meLal case
havlng slldlng LransparenL anLlsLaLlc glass
doors
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abrlc performance LesLs
lber composlLlon
1hread counL
CM
abrlc sLrengLh
1enslle sLrengLh
1earlng sLrengLh
Abraslon reslsLance
llllng LesLer
MolsLure regaln
AlrpermeablllLy LesLs
WaLer repellency LesLs
lame reLardancy LesLs
lber composlLlon
1hread counL
CM
abrlc sLrengLh
1enslle sLrengLh
1earlng sLrengLh
Abraslon reslsLance
llllng LesLer
MolsLure regaln
AlrpermeablllLy LesLs
WaLer repellency LesLs
abrlc drape LesLer
urape meLer by ammonla meLhod
lameablllLy LesLs
asLness LesLlng for fabrlcs
asLness Lo llghL
asLness Lo washlng
asLness Lo rubblng
asLness Lo persplraLlon