BANJARA EMBROIDERY ( THE LAMBADIS) OF ANDHRA PRADESH

Think of nomad, caravaners, gypsies and you think of them as free people .
Free from the binds of urban life, they evoke dreams of the life spirit roaming without fetters.

Staying in communes called tandas, they still strive to preserve the fascinating and unpredictable traditions of their ancestors . Tattooed women with hands weighed down by ivory bangles create the memorable mirror work which the Banjaras are famous for.

 This art form belongs to the nomads and gypsies of Andhra Pradesh often called the lambadis. The embroidery of this form is live and vibrant. The Banjaras in Andhra Pradesh display their colorful lifestyle through their exuberant clothes. Their embroidery forms an integral part of big and small events in their lives.

HISTORY
The origin of the banjara embroidery dates back to the era of Lord Krishna. It is said that when Lord Krishna killed an evil demon who had captured the gopis, thereby freeing the gopis, then as the gesture of thanks giving , the embroidered pieces were gifted to Lord Krishna by the gopis . These people traveled to different places and went on to become the banjaras . Spread across the country today, Evolving this needle art till date.

FABRICS AND THREADS USED

Traditionally the fabric used by the banjaras is COTTON. Interaction with the contemporary world has led to the use of synthetic fabrics available in the urban markets The thread most commonly used by the banjaras is cotton however with contemporarization synthetic yarns are also used.

MOTIFS
All the motifs incorporated by the banjaras are geometrical in nature. The banjara symbol, the quincunx is the most basic motif. Variation of the quincunx form the different motifs in different designs. Wide variety of birds and and animals The swastika, a symbol of fertility and marriage Triangles, rectangles, squares, zigzags, circles, ovals, symmetrical geometric patterns etc. form the other motifs.

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES USED

The banjara embroidery involves the following stitches: 1. Flat stitches 2. Running or darning stitch running or darning stitch is usually used in making quilts out of old rags in order to stitch the different pieces together in a beautiful manner. 3. Chain stitch. It is used for filling in the motifs. A concentric way of filling in the motifs is employed

4. Looped stitch
It is also used for filling in motifs.

5. Cross stitches 6. Appliqu work

Applique work is very much to be seen in the embroidery of the banjaras mostly in the form of small triangular pieces.

COLOURS
Primary colours like red, blue and yellow, Different shades of red like burnt, earthy and rusty reds, vibrant yellows and oranges, blues and greens and also black and white.

MATERIALS USED
Apart from the fabric and thread there are other embellishments which form an integral part of the embroideries of the banjaras. Embellishments include mirrors, locally called shisha and shells called cowries,which were once a form of currency and are considered sacred. Metal pieces like lead are also used as a humbled recognition of the tanda's.

PRODUCTS
Ceremonial square or dhavalo fabric. Mens wedding bags. (Kotli) Brides dowry bags. (Kotli) Chopat game boards. Bullock face and horn ornaments. Head cloths for brides.

PRESENT SCENARIO and COMMERCIALISATION

Staying in communes, they still strive to preserve the fascinating traditions of their ancestors. An off-shoot of Banjara needlework is the fantastic range of artistic utility pieces like bags, belts, batwas, skirts, blouses, bed Spreads, sofa backs, cushion covers etc that meet the changing tastes and requirements of present day connoisseurs.

 Head dresses. Kotlis(bags),quilted and embroidered. Quilts. Blouses(backless kachali) and skirts. Brides ceremonial bag(kotli) for carrying tooth cleaning sticks(datunia).

 During the last two decades Banjara embroidery has flooded the markets in India, England, Japan and the United States.
Their work has been included in major museum and gallery exhibitions in India, Japan, England and Switzerland.